Deborah de Luca - Interview

DEBORAH DE LUCA
*Equality at 140 BPM

written + interview ALBAN E. SMAJLI

Born in Scampia and wired for motion, Deborah de Luca takes the booth as a surveyor might seize a blueprint, her compass a strobe that scans the crowd.

She draws tempo across faces like lines of elevation, setting three instinctive tracks as a base layer, a quiet study before construction begins. From there she lifts the room piece by piece, each transition a new frame rising into place, until the set breathes as a structure of rhythm and light. Lately the final touch often glimmers with a Gigi D’Agostino refrain — a silver filament stretched through a contemporary shell, binding past and present in one luminous design.

Silence holds a private garden key for Deborah. Life surrounds her with music in studios, in clubs, in cars, so she seeks stillness and lets it refill the body. Between the first record and the last drop new selves appear and dissolve, across long marathons of four to seven hours, a full cycle of morning energy, afternoon charge, evening glow. One word: equality, a law for dance floors where categories melt and a single pulse writes a passport for everyone.

dress VERSACE
shoes LE SILLA

“In a techno club, it doesn’t matter if you’re white, Black, gray, yellow, Christian, Jewish, atheist—inside, we’re all of the same religion: techno.”

Deborah de Luca speaks with Alban E. Smajli
for LE MILE .Digital

Her faith moves through cosmic grammar. God equals the universe, a field of energy, color, and music that answers when addressed with intention. She runs her label since 2013, appetite vivid for sound, image, cinema, miles. Tastes shift like seasons of the tongue, sometimes heavy and hard, sometimes featherlight and melodic, especially in the final hour when the sun inside her sets leans toward amber. Craft sits on both shoulders during those passages, melody braiding with steel, her signature: hard pop, techno fluent.
Small rooms feed her with a certain charge, afters where the ceiling breathes and the floor talks back, like that morning in Florence when the dial locked into hard art techno and a new facet snapped into view. The ugliest sound in her memory came from plastic whistles pecking at the kick, a fashion that squealed and left a sour ring. Spin her catalog from end to start and a path appears, a gradual climb shaped by taste and by the sound of her city, a line that rises in small steps and keeps rising.

When the lights rise and the room exhales, a ritual follows. Fifteen minutes of fierce self audit, choices weighed and corners checked, then a homing current toward bed, toward two dogs, toward the sunset that washes the house in gold and resets the chest. Flights create a sealed capsule where the pilot drives and the grid fades into distance, films flicker, thoughts wander, and nerves surrender. She wants the work to live on, a structure that other hands can lift and carry, music that glows with memory and future. Deborah de Luca composes momentum and mercy in the same breath, a builder who treats crowds like cities and nights like blueprints, and across seven hour marathons or one hour transmissions the mission stays constant, read the room, raise the structure, leave them with a song that follows them home. For a long, long while. Always.

top VOFT KNIT
skirt RICK OWENS

Alban E. Smajli
Your sets feel like architecture. What’s the last thing that shattered your sense of control?

Deborah de Luca
I take “architecture” as a compliment, but honestly, there’s not much pre-built. The first three tracks I already know, because I need time to read the room and understand who’s in front of me. Those first 15 minutes are my time to analyze. From there, I build what comes next. Maybe that’s architecture, but it happens live, piece by piece. Only when I play a DJ set that’s streamed online, like for the Street Parade or my live shows from the Vele di Scampia or at Maradona Stadium those are the only sets I prepare at home. They’re not random but carefully studied since they’ll have media exposure. I decide on the tracks beforehand, or even create some pieces specifically for the occasion, but I never fix their order.

You grew up in Scampia. Now you tour the world pulsing through Funktion-Ones. Is there still a part of you that hears silence and gets suspicious?

Actually, I love silence, I don’t become suspicious. When I get in the car, I turn the music off; if a driver is with me, I turn it off; if I’m at a restaurant, I like silence. Because I live constantly with music—when I make it, when I listen to others, when I work in clubs, or when I hear someone play before or after me. So I need silence, I look for it, it regenerates me.

How many versions of you exist between the opening track and the last drop at 4:37 a.m.?

The first track is always mine, the last one is usually not, especially lately, when I like closing with a Gigi D’Agostino piece from the early 2000s. So no, I’m not the same from the first to the last track. I take a journey, especially if I play long sets of 4, 5, even 7 hours. I’m not the same person from the first to the last record. Sometimes I come back, then I drift away—it’s the same in life. You wake up one way in the morning, by afternoon you have different energy, and in the evening it changes again.

Do you believe in God? Or just in bass?

I believe, but not in the God most people think of—not that man with long hair and blue eyes, born in Jerusalem, who should have been darker-skinned anyway. I don’t believe in that. I believe in the universe. For me, God is the universe. When you ask for something, you ask the universe. The energy comes from the universe, you attract it. To me, that’s the same thing—God is the universe. But it has no human figure; it’s everything around us: energy, colors, music. That, for me, is God.

top VOFT KNIT
skirt ISZA
lip ring ASK & EMBLA

You run your own label. Do you still feel hunger, or is it something deeper now? Obsession maybe, or ritual?

I’ve managed my label alone since 2013. I’m always hungry, and that will never pass—whether for music, colors, friendships, films, travel. Hunger will never leave me. Sometimes I just change tastes—sometimes I want sweet, sometimes salty. In music, sometimes heavier, harder; other times softer, like in the last hour of long sets. But yes, the hunger never fades.

Do you miss the chaos of small clubs? The kind where the smoke machine breaks and the floor sweats back at you?

I miss the energy of small clubs a lot. Sometimes, when after a festival I play a little after-party in a small place, I’m really happy, because you’re closer to people. It also gives me a different idea of music, I play differently. For example, last time in Florence, in a club after a festival, I was much harder than usual—very art-techno. I discovered a new side of myself there.

What’s the worst sound you’ve ever heard on stage?

When the sound system isn’t as it should be and the monitor speaker starts crackling, it’s terrible — it breaks the magic.

If someone played your full discography backwards, what message would emerge?

You’d hear the journey. Where I started slowly, climbing step by step—not mountains, just hills. I evolved with my own taste, with people’s taste, with the sounds around me, with the influences of my city. You’d hear that it’s been a steady path upward—not of highs and lows, but always slowly rising.

Techno doesn’t need words, but if it did—what would yours be? Just one.

Equality. In a techno club, it doesn’t matter if you’re white, Black, gray, yellow, Christian, Jewish, atheist—nobody cares. Inside, we’re all of the same religion: techno. And that’s something very beautiful.

What keeps you OFFLINE when your whole life runs on voltage and signal? Or is OFFLINE just a myth sold to the unplugged?

My home, my dogs, the sunset at home. Also when I fly. Yesterday I had a 14-hour flight and could have connected, but I didn’t. On planes, I let the pilot drive, I rest, I disconnect completely. When I’m not flying, it’s still my dogs and my home that keep me offline.

You’ve built something—music, myth, a kind of feminine rage wrapped in steel. Do you ever worry it’ll outgrow you?

No, I don’t think it can become bigger than me. Music is understandable for everyone, and even if it grows, it remains something elementary. I never feared it could outgrow me.

When the lights come up and the bodies thin out, when it’s just sweat on the floor and silence in the booth, where does your mind go? Who do you become when the music stops?

Honestly, I’m very tough on myself. The first 15 minutes after a set I spend thinking I haven’t done my very best—that I should have played another track, that something was too easy, too commercial, or too hard. Even when everyone says it was great, I criticize myself. Then I can’t wait to get into bed, and to go home to my dogs.

“For me, God is the universe. Energy, colors, music—that, for me, is God.”

Deborah de Luca speaks with Alban E. Smajli
for LE MILE .Digital

top YVY LEATHER
panties MAISON CLOSE

photographer NICHOLAS FOLS
styling + production ANCA MACAVEI
styling assistants JYOTHSANA SELVAM + LESLIE GUERRA
assistant on set MELISSA RUSSO

talent
DEBORAH DE LUCA

Yulia Pavlen - Interview

YULIA PAVLEN
*When You´re Strange

written + interview HANNAH ROSE PRENDERGAST

POV: You embrace who you are, learn to laugh at yourself, and never fear standing out. —a friendly reminder from Yulia Pavlen.

Born in the early years of Ukraine’s independence, she grew up during a time of radical transformation. Ever the optimist, she carried bright, artful memories of home when she moved to Berlin in 2022.
In this new city, where being strange felt less like an exception and more like a shared language, her TikTok became an extension of how she moved through the world. If you see Yulia doing her makeup on the subway, the best thing you can do is be her mirror.

Shooting outdoors in 40°F (5°C) weather was one of my most challenging experiences. I wore five looks, most of which were lightweight—one was just a skirt and bra. I was freezing the whole time but didn’t say anything. I knew it wouldn’t be easy, so I focused on giving my best.
The team was amazing, checking in regularly, which I really appreciated.
I also faced my fear of heights: sitting on a subway exit railing, standing in a second-floor windowsill, and posing on an electrical box.
Despite the challenges, I’m incredibly grateful for the experience. I love stepping out of my comfort zone. My motto is, 'This scares me, but let’s try it. ' Taking risks and pushing myself are just who I am.
When I’m doing what I love, I forget about the discomfort. It feels like leaving the world behind and stepping into a space where I can express myself freely.

—Yulia Pavlen

Yulia Pavlen
Coverstory LE MILE Ephemeral Edition Nr. 38 / 01/2025
seen by Per Appelgren, wearing CELINE

“I was always Daddy’s little girl … riding on his motorcycle gave me my first real taste of freedom.”

Yulia Pavlen speaks with Hannah Rose Prendergast
for LE MILE Issue 38 / Ephemeral Edition SS25

coat JOSHUA SENGESPEICK

top CELINE
panties MIU MIU
shoes AEYDE
coat JOSHUA SENGESPEICK

Hannah Rose Prendergast
What inspired you to start your Get Ready With Me series on the subway?

Yulia
When creating new content, I always ask myself, ‘Would this idea hook me?’ The GRWM concept came to me almost by accident as I reflected on what would genuinely captivate me. I love makeup and often do it in public spaces, so the idea feels natural. Moving forward, I want to improve the quality of my content, especially in terms of lighting and video production. I’m always brainstorming new ideas. On TikTok, you can never be sure if an idea will succeed—you have to try it out and see how viewers respond.

How do you and your camerawoman work together to bring your vision to life?

My camerawoman, Valeria Shelihova, is also a close friend. Although we’re both from Ukraine, we met in Berlin. We have a great connection and often communicate without speaking. I provide the creative direction, and Valeria captures it all as it unfolds.

What do you find therapeutic about creating content?

It sounds odd, but I thrive on not being accepted by everyone. Not everyone rejects me for wearing makeup, but many people do. That energy of rejection, rather than breaking me, fuels my determination. I’ve learned to stand firm and not let others’ opinions affect me. When you stand your ground and refuse to let negativity define you, that’s when you truly win—and there’s no better feeling than that.

How has your artist name changed over time, and what does it mean to you now?

As a teenager, I went by 'Autistic' and even got it tattooed. I chose the name because I was reserved, shy, and had no friends. People thought something was wrong with me. At the time, I was studying in art college, immersing myself in painting and classical literature. I saw myself as a strange, lyrical character named 'Autistic.'

When I moved to Berlin, I was set to collaborate with a designer, but he declined because of my name. That’s when I realized it might be holding me back professionally. I wanted a name that feels more like me—timeless, elegant, and strong. Yulia Pavlen aligns more with where I’m heading, both creatively and professionally.

top CELINE
panties MIU MIU
shoes AEYDE

total look SPORTMAX
shoes AEYDE

“Moving to Berlin wasn’t easy, but thanks to the kindness of strangers, I never felt alone.”

Yulia Pavlen speaks with Hannah Rose Prendergast
for LE MILE Issue 38 / Ephemeral Edition SS25

top NICKLAS SKOVGAARD
tights FALKE
necklace PEARL OCCTOPUSS.Y

What was your experience growing up in Ukraine and then moving to Berlin?

I’m from Kharkiv, Ukraine’s first capital—a beautiful yet industrial city with a unique charm. I grew up in the Saltovka neighborhood, which endured heavy shelling due to its proximity to the Russian border. Soviet-era panel housing shaped much of my early years, but despite everything, I love Kharkiv and its people—they are kind, resilient, and have an incredible sense of humor.

Moving to Berlin wasn’t easy, but I was fortunate to meet incredible people who helped me with housing and paperwork and made me feel like family despite being strangers. Thanks to their kindness, I never felt alone or afraid of not knowing German. They were always there to support me. Living in Europe changed me. People here are much more supportive than in Ukraine. Back home, I often felt misunderstood or ridiculed. I guess I was a bit too different. Now, I’m excited to collaborate with talented professionals in the fashion industry from around the world.

Who introduced you to the world of art?

As an artist, my father exposed me to art from a young age. He often took me to exhibitions and museums and filled our home with books on classical and modern art. He also gave me many of his art materials, which became my first tools for creativity. I’m deeply grateful to him for immersing me in this world. I always knew I would become an artist—it was never a question. I dedicated myself to studying academic art, including drawing, painting, composition, and anatomy. I was incredibly passionate, and art became a way to express my thoughts and feelings. Although I’m not currently drawing, I may return to it someday.

How did you learn to ‘own your glow’?

The modeling industry values uniqueness and a distinctive edge more than conventional beauty. Many incredibly beautiful people struggle to present themselves. This skill comes from knowing who you are and embracing what sets you apart. Owning your glow is essential—it will shine through your work and light up the space around you.

Why should you believe in the kindness of strangers?

I always choose to believe in the good—it is a mindset that works best for me. The same goes for people I don’t know. I don’t dwell on whether they’re good or not; instead, I prepare myself mentally and emotionally to believe nothing bad will happen to me.

What change do you want to see in yourself and the world?

I want world peace. War is the worst thing that can happen. Personally, I want to be more patient with myself in achieving my goals. Good results take time.

What’s one of your core memories from childhood?

I was always Daddy’s little girl, spending most of my time by his side. He often took me on motorcycle rides, and I especially loved the thrill of racing down the expressway with him. Those moments gave me my first real taste of freedom.

top CULT FORM
skirt NICKLAS SKOVGAARD
tights WOLFORD
shoes AEYDE
accessoires CELINE

photographer PER APPELGREN
creative + art direction STUDIO NONSENS / STEFANIE SCHELLWIES + LISANNE KURTH
talent YULIA PAVLEN
styling NESSIE
hair MASAYUKI YUASA using Less is More Organic Cosmetic
make up LEE HYANGSOON using Gucci Beauty
production ENLIL via AVEC NOUS BERLIN
moving image METTE NORDVIG
light LIAM MULLIGAN
digi TOBIAS ORTMANN
social KARLA SCHRADI
retouch ROMARIO MAHEER

production coordination + booking lemilestudios

first published
LE MILE Ephemeral Edition Nr. 39 (2025)

Pita Antonio Velasco - Interview

PiTA
*Sacred Territories

written + interview MARK ASHKINS

PiTA’s work is a current, an unseen force moving through space, unbound by time. Her process is a pulse, a frequency felt in the marrow, where every action is a spell cast in movement and form. There is no arrival, only the endless unfolding of what has already begun.

Her hands know the weight of inheritance. Walking barefoot on sun-scorched mountains, mapping invisible lines between body and land, she stitches the air with numerology’s unseen architecture. Symbols dictate rhythm, thread extends beyond the edge, fabric refuses to end. The act of making is the act of knowing, of returning to a knowledge that has never left.

Each piece, each ceremony, each moment is a gesture—a call and an answer, happening in the same breath. The body is an archive, a site of memory and inscription, absorbing and releasing. The loom moves, the body bends, the weave extends beyond its last stitch. PiTA opens a space where time moves differently, where the act of creation is simply what must be done.


“My stories have never been easy—marked by violence, discrimination, and pain. But my body, unlike any other love, taught me how to love.”

PiTA speaks with Mark Ashkins
for LE MILE Ephemeral Edition - SS 2025 Nr. 38

Mark Ashkins
From curating events to creating designs—where does the pulse of your creativity hit hardest? In the planning, the making, or that fleeting moment it al comes alive?

PiTA
When a baby was born in our family, my maternal great-grandmother always gifted a gold jewel to the newborn, believing that gold repels bad energies. That jewel became an amulet of protection and good fortune. I return to that symbolic act as a reminder of the power of intention, of the way objects carry energy. I feel deeply connected to creation through my body—my uterus, my chest. Each project, whether it’s shaping the atmosphere of a ceremony, weaving a sculpture from two hundred meters of cempasúchil flowers, or walking, unclothed in soul and skin, through the mountains to be photographed, becomes a small birth. I rest, live, and nourish myself in these moments.

Your connection to the land and community in Oaxaca feels like the heartbeat of your work. How does that bond weave itself into your creative world?

To help my body form the arch of my feet, my father took me every afternoon to walk across mountains of hot earth. That was my initiation, my connection to the land, my integration into the rituals of my community. My work is self-referential. I open what is inside me, decontextualizing what has always existed in a fixed place.

Numerology feels like a hidden map. How do its patterns and symbols shape the way you see or create?

Inherited wisdom and the numbers of my birth date form a path that guides my intuition. I also find guidance in textiles—their numerical patterns, sequences, and rhythms. I work with a weaving technique that restores the soul, a symbol of second chances. In Oaxaca’s prisons, this technique is taught to those deprived of liberty. From behind bars, they weave bags that their families sell to sustain themselves. Traditionally called the ‘basket weaving technique,’ I call it ‘infinite weaving’ because it is a spiral with no true end. The illusion of completion exists, but in reality, the weave always has the potential to continue.

jewelry LODEPECH

“Each project, whether it’s shaping the atmosphere of a ceremony, weaving a sculpture from two hundred meters of cempasúchil flowers, or walking, unclothed in soul and skin, through the mountains to be photographed, becomes a small birth.”

PiTA speaks with Mark Ashkins
for LE MILE Ephemeral Edition - SS 2025 Nr. 38

Using your body as a canvas and a voice—what have you learned about the stories it holds and the spaces it occupies?

My nature provokes. It reveals what others carry within them while expanding what I carry inside myself. My stories have never been easy—marked by violence, discrimination, and pain. But my body, unlike any other love, taught me how to love. Through loving myself, I came to understand all bodies as sacred territories, deserving of honor, dignity, freedom, and respect.

Your events are caled ‘unrepeatable experiences.’ How do you create something that leaves a permanent mark?

Life is an unrepeatable experience—shifting, filled with characters, emotions, scenarios, loves. If I had to illustrate the surreal, fleeting nature of the human universe, I would point to a painting by the Oaxacan artist Rodolfo Morales, where all realities coexist, happening simultaneously. I open my own universe with love and honesty, stepping with respect and without judgment into the open universe of others.

How do you create space for stillness and generosity amid the constant rush and noise?

I come from a family of farmers. Cultivating plants instilled patience, the wisdom of giving, and the humility of receiving. Living alongside plants, following their cycles, develops an intuition aligned with the rhythm of the earth—one that mirrors our own human cycles. From my family, I’ve learned that there is a time and a season for everything, that nature dictates when to move forward and when to pause, and that to understand what is inside, one must observe what is outside.

Your designs carry the soul of tradition, but they slip effortlessly into the now. How do you move between these two worlds without losing their essence?

My grandfather and father passed down a gift to me—the ability to walk without getting lost. They travel from town to town, mountain to mountain, guided only by intuition. I walk constantly. My feet are my preferred mode of transport, carrying me into the unknown. I find joy in what is unfamiliar, spending much of my time there, in the other. Yet, I always find my way back to my own.

Art often walks the line between rebelion and preservation. Where does your work sit in that conversation?

Being and doing are woven from the same thread—the one that connects past and future through the present. I have always been rooted, untamed, and free. These traits shaped my childhood and continue to define my existence. Nothing should take away our freedom.

Which designer or brand feels like a mirror to your vision—timeless, but alive in the moment?

Salo Shayo—friend, visionary, and resident designer of Mexico City. His last collection, New Ode, was a love letter to pre-Hispanic and contemporary Mexico. Through ten symbolic outfits, he captured the fusion of all of Mexico’s eras—those that have passed, the one we live in now, and, seductively, a glimpse of those yet to come.

What’s a recent fashion show, colection, or creative moment that made you stop and feel something real?

A Lucha Libre presentation at the iconic San Francisco Arena in Oaxaca. Lucha Libre is a ritual, a spectacle—martial arts fused with acrobatics, theater, and maximalist fashion. When the wrestlers enter the ring, they walk a perfect balance on the ropes, wearing masks that conceal their identity, costumes that radiate vibrancy—sequins, iridescent fabrics, bold colors. But these garments mean nothing without the force, the character, the life the fighters infuse them with. Choosing a mask and costume is a profound decision. Every shape, texture, and symbol is selected with care, for they will accompany the wrestler throughout their career. That level of intention, that search for something so deeply aligned with one's true self, moves me. Even as time passes and things change, that essence remains, unwavering in its truth.

model PITA ANTONIO VELASCO
photography TATSUMI MILORI
styling + creative direction EVA BERNAL

Francesco Ruggiero - Interview

.aesthetic talk
FRANCESCO RUGGIERO
*New World Order

written Chidozie Obasi

At a time when the climate of the global fashion industry is changing with an increasingly ferocious pace, there’s no doubting Francesco Ruggiero’s credentials are a welcome respite: the Padova-born, Milan-hailed multihyphenate knows how to swoon, surprise and stun with his arresting look, as a creative of great poise and drive; no mean feat in a world shaped by downturns.

Ruggiero, who moved to Santorini with his family aged one and then to Athens a few years later, has been on a restless pursuit to discover himself far beyond the highly-coveted fixtures of the modeling system, dwelling between joyful thrills and punchy feels in equal measure. “I've always been very open hearted and kind to people, even if I couldn't really tell if they just wanted things from me or not,” he freely admits, with no signs of peacocking braggadocio on display. Chronicling a career that could spark pangs of envy to many of his peers, Ruggiero has graced campaigns and runways of brands like Calvin Klein, Zara, Moncler, Giorgio Armani, Oliver Peoples, to name a few. But there’s more to the story, which you’ll possibly read here first. You’re welcome.

total look PRADA

jacket ANTONIO MARRAS
blazer DOLCE & GABBANA
gilet + tank top ETRO
denim TOD’S
shorts JIL SANDER by Lucie and Luke Meier
necklace SWAROVSKI

“I started giving more attention to my mental health through the whole process of growing up and the difficulties... now it's so much clearer on how to approach things and how to maintain my stability.”

Francesco Ruggiero speaks with Chidozie Obasi
LE MILE Magazine EPHEMERAL, Nr. 38

dark blazer THE FRANKIE SHOP
white blazer TAGLIATORE
shirt PAUL SMITH
pants THE LATEST
tie CELINE
loafers SEBAGO

Chidozie Obasi
First things first: How did you venture into modelling?
Francesco Ruggiero
I started in 2020, right before COVID struck. My sister had this crazy idea to go into an agency alone and sometimes, as they say, one never has to bring friends to castings and jobs. They ended up signing me and my sister, but she’s someone who hates the modeling process. After COVID, I quit my two jobs as a salesman and as a barman, and I understood that this industry had way more potential for me.

Where did you begin such a venture?
I started modelling in Greece, and I must admit I had a couple of wrong people that managed me at the beginning. I didn’t feel represented in the way I wanted, even though at the beginning it was very exciting. So when I came across the right people and the right conditions were met, it was a way to cope and do the things I wanted to do while being myself: I felt happy. I struggled a lot at the start because I did things I didn't care about for cheap prices as I didn't have money for the second part of COVID; I was in Milan, with three people in one bed, which was insane, but I would do it all over again. I'm now very grateful to be comfortable and carefree.

What does fashion mean to you?
It's a very distinct and specific way to express yourself. There's a big misconception that if one is a model, he doesn’t really care about style and fashion, or about the things around. For example, I caught myself buying cheap stuff like Zara, H&M or garments that don't last. I realised that it's my job to actually feel good in clothes. I want to be, to be represented by fashion as I represent it through the images I feature in, you know. So it's a tough gig, but at the same time I understood the value of spending more money and time to research the right pieces that made me feel even more connected to the product.

How has its significance changed for you over the years?
At the beginning, it was something very ephemeral, but then it evolved into this thing that's more and more compelling to use to learn, know, feel and see garments. For example, I was watching a movie the other day (Memories of Murder) and the clothes they wore were so important, an element which can be sometimes brushed aside in the cinema industry sometimes. But that's what separates the greatest people of the world.

coat + socks PAUL SMITH
sweater FEDERICO CINA
pants ACT N1
belt VERSACE
shoes DR MARTENS

blazers + ties PAUL SMITH
top EXTREME CASHMERE
pants MOSCHINO
loafers SEBAGO

“I've always been very open hearted and kind to people, even if I couldn't really tell if they just wanted things from me or not.”

Francesco Ruggiero speaks with Chidozie Obasi
LE MILE Magazine EPHEMERAL, Nr. 38

jacket CASCINELLI
sweater FEDERICO CINA
shirt TAKATURNA
waist sweater CATERPILLAR
pants SETCHU

What's the biggest pinch me moment of your career and journey?
I think it hasn't happened yet, I don't know why. Actually, I feel there’s been a couple, but it was never something I’d consider major, maybe because it's not the career I want to pursue for the rest of my life. I know I want to do it as well as possible, but I don’t want to be solely remembered for my beauty. I think seeing myself in a very different position would be super, like doing a fashion brand or a campaign. I think the biggest ones I would like would be either Bottega or Prada, because they’re not very me and it would be great to explore their aesthetic.

How about your most complex time?
When I was younger, because I had a very specific set of parents who are non-politically correct, as they grew up in difficult times. They all had to do their own thing in their own way. My mom had her first tattoo at 13. And so basically she was like the black sheep of the family and on the streets doing her own thing: growing up, she had to survive to get where she is. And my dad, on the other hand, was the opposite: he comes from a very wealthy family, but then just decided to do whatever and throw everything, whatever they gave him, and he became the black sheep, too. My dad is someone who moved to Mexico and lived there for 15 years. He was never there in a sense, but that's his personality. I met him better when I got older and I went there, at a time when I didn't see him for nearly a decade. But then on the other hand, my mom always loved us, because she changed a lot when she had us. However, she didn't have the means and it was even more difficult, because growing up, we wanted things that maybe we didn't have. But we adjusted and we were kind, especially to our mom, because she was alone; now she's like the most adorable, full of tattoos mom ever.

Any advice you'd give your younger self?
I would have loved to understand the people coming to me, what they actually need or what I could tell them differently.

How do you juggle mental health?
I started giving more attention to my mental health through the whole process of growing up and the difficulties. I had to meet my girlfriend three years ago to understand how important mental health was, especially for things that involve love and trust, because that's when it gets more serious trusting someone when you're so in love and you try to give everything. So I started psychology sessions and now I don't almost don't do them anymore. I only attend therapy sessions when I feel like I have to, but it has gotten me to a point where now it's so much clearer when on how to approach things and how to talk myself through things and how to maintain my stability or don't get angry, don't think too far ahead. I don’t overthink things because that was my main issue about everything.

So now tell me about the book. How did it come about?
The idea started around a couple of years ago, and it was a collection of pictures I had on my phone of lost things and randomly found objects from all over the world, from Los Angeles, Brazil, Mexico, to Iceland where I went for the first time. Objects include the likes of gloves, hats and whatever you can think of. One night I was scrolling through this album of 60-ish pictures with a friend who's a photographer, and we began writing down all the coordinates of where we found these objects - given the through line of my gallery is predominantly consumerist and materialistic. For every picture, we wrote a story of who might have lost the object, and every picture has a different writing. It then translated into more things, like a movie for the book in which the protagonist loses himself across time.

Any future hopes?
I think my biggest hope is to be wealthy enough to be comfortable. I would like to be comfortable in the way that nobody around me has to feel like a burden. At this moment and time, I’m here trying to figure out what I like exactly. And when I find that out, I would like to transition from being just a model. I don't think modelling will ever actually go away, because I like the idea and I like the retribution, obviously, and that I have to take care of myself, because I always like training. But I would like for my creative process to become the centre. Then all the rest is more than welcome to step in, as and when it wishes.

seen COSIMO BUCCOLIERI
fashion director + stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
assistant editor DAVIDE BELOTTI
editorial coordinator NICOLÒ BATTISTINI
make up DIANA DJURDJEVSKI
hair DAVIDE PERFETTI
set designer IRENE COVERI
talent FRANCESCO RUGGIERO

production assistant Anja Menegon
photography assistant Antonio Crotti
set design assistant Giulia Pettinelli
fashion assistants Anna Sarr, Cloe Rubinato, Hamin Lee, Loris Vottero, Maria Teresa Jurado, Gaia Cirillo

Sadiq Desh - Interview

SADIQ DESH
Sheer Delight

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

As a creative fresh into his path whilst showing a patience that equates to burgeoning success, 29-year-old Sadiq Desh isn’t ready to rest on his laurels just yet.

“Over the last year, I’ve had some firsts!” he exclaimed, adding that “I saw a lot of me honing on my social media style and modeling.” Born in Nigeria and now hailed in Berlin, he finished high school and moved to Canada to pursue his Bachelor’s degree, working in finance for a year before switching to the fashion sector.

Desh deems Canada “a small market,” so it wasn't until the pandemic when he moved to Berlin and started gaining more of a following on social media that he ventured into the creative world. On the impact of industry, he speaks candidly about the complexities of the system. “It still goes in waves I think,” he opines. “Just being in Germany, across the fashion scope and within the influencer community there isn’t much inclusion, which is why I'm happy independent outlets — like yours — exist and represent people who look like me, because there’s media that keep using influencers or models who look exact same, so seeing that is always a bit frustrating because they could maybe tap out of their usual zone and give people a different dimension of what they do rather than using the same kind of boys all the time,” he adds.

“Sometimes there’s things that people do that make you feel like you don't belong in a certain room… you can definitely tell when people feel entitled because of their ego.”

Sadiq Desh speaks with Chidozie Obasi
for LE MILE .Digital

Moving on to representation, Desh believes that there can still be more profiles like him in the industry. “I still think there’s things that can be done, as there’s still moments where I don’t feel like I'm being respected or treated a certain way, especially in the influencer market where you’re dealing with people with egos and followers,” he shares. “Sometimes there’s things that people do that make you feel like you don't belong in a certain room, and whether it's consciously or unconsciously you can definitely tell when people feel entitled because of their ego. I just always want to make people feel welcome no matter what level of popularity they have.” His transition to being just a set fixture to appearing on socials happened out of the blue in 2017, because the first big fashion brand that invited him was Gucci and he attended their small activation, which led to expanding his career.

But there’s more to the story. “The positives of this job is that obviously you’re lucky enough to make a living out of it, which I think in the bigger scope of things is kind of crazy that you just have this social media profile on a platform and you’re able to profit from it,” he shares. “But I think the benefits for me have been that I was able to have an avenue to meet more people and get educated on things I probably wouldn't have been educated on in other areas. Obviously the downfall with that is if you’re ignorant over certain things and you’re putting stuff out there—and it's perhaps not the right connotation—you could get some backlash as there’s no learning curve or there’s no room for learning when you have such a platform, so you kind of have to take things as they come.”

cardigan MOSCHINO
shirt DIOR MEN
shorts FENDI
tie PAUL SMITH
necklaces LAG World

top FERRAGAMO
brown vest DOLCE&GABBANA
white shirt MANUEL RITZ
pants PAUL SMITH
loafers CHURCH’S

total look MIU MIU

“What keeps me grounded is the urge to resonate with what’s authentic to me… not just the monetary gain, but what feels authentically delightful to me.”

Sadiq Desh speaks with Chidozie Obasi
for LE MILE .Digital

total look LORO PIANA

total look VALENTINO

sweater + shirt + tie PAUL SMITH
pants ZEGNA
shoes SEBAGO

Desh has always taken a personal approach within his platforms. “I mostly gain traction because of my thoughts on things and obviously fashion but my personal say about topics or how I’m feeling is what keeps people,” he opines, reflecting on the notion of authenticity. “I think it's a double-edged sword, because one wants to be authentic, but then people have a short attention span on the internet so one minute you're viral and the next minute you’re forgotten,” he concludes. “What keeps me grounded is the urge to resonate with what’s authentic to me, and to be honest sometimes I've lost that because of the commercial process of social media; however, what I've been pushing forward since last year is not just the monetary gain, but what feels authentically delightful to me.”

blazer JIL SANDER by Lucie and Luke Meier
sweater CANALI
shirt ALESSANDRO GHERARDI
pants MEIMEIJ
loafer CHURCH’S

blazer ISABEL MARANT
shirt DIOR Men
pants JIL SANDER by Lucie and Luke Meier
shoes FERRAGAMO

photography ANTONIO CROTTI   
fashion director + stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI   
head of production JESSICA LOVATO   
fashion coordinator LUCA MICELI   
make up AMY KOUROUMA via WM MANAGEMENT using Nabla Cosmetics   
hair ALICE FANTINI using Davines   
talent SADIQ DESH   
set design IRENE COVERI
fashion assistants LORIS VOTTERO + CLOE RUBINATO + ANNA REGAZZONI + JORDAN MAX BAGLIONI + ALBERTO MICHISANTI + MARTINA MANENTI + MARTINA MUSMARRA + EDWARD PUSCA  

Ali Guty - Interview

ALI GUTY
*Action of Becoming

written + interview MARK ASHKINS

Ali Guty arrives in a way that makes arrival feel like an outdated concept, because she’s already in the room before she steps into it, already occupying the gaze before the lens has the nerve to blink, already shaping the air before the stylists even begin to fuss with the hem of anything, because presence doesn’t begin or end, it spills, it stretches, it slips under doors and over walls and between the seams of whatever someone once tried to call fashion, or work, or image, or identity.

There is a pace to her, the kind that folds time in on itself, the kind that turns a set into a stage into a space into a world where cameras become guests and nothing—absolutely nothing—is static, because static things break and Ali doesn’t do broken, she does bending, reshaping, reworking, reappearing, again and again and again, in forms that flicker just long enough to be felt but never long enough to be held.

Fashion loves a narrative but she refuses punctuation, lets the story spill out of her limbs, her shoulders, her neck, the angle of her jaw in late afternoon shadow, and there is always shadow, and there is always light, and between the two she moves like she invented both, like someone who doesn’t need costume or cue because expression lives in the body, and hers writes paragraphs in silk, in denim, in latex and cotton, in things you forgot were supposed to be clothes because they start to feel more like skin or muscle or the inside of a thought that never needed words.

dress ONRUSH

There was Jean Paul Gaultier, of course there was, because some people spot truth without needing it explained, because identity comes to some as intuition and others through decades of misdirection, and Ali holds it with the kind of grip that just rests firm, like someone who’s never had to borrow power because hers came with a fuse already lit.

There are shoots, there are rooms, there are teams and tables and call sheets and sponsored water bottles, but also—there’s motion, breath, the way her hand interrupts the air and tells it to pay attention, and it does, and so does everyone else, because rhythm doesn’t require music and energy doesn’t request permission, and when presence hums, everything else becomes chorus. So she moves—forward, outward, upward, inward, all at once, without a map, without a pause, into the spaces that recognise her even before she’s named them, because naming is for those who need labels, and Ali has already lived the thing.

dress LARHHA

Mark Ashkins
What’s the frst fashion moment that made you stop and think—this is where I belong?

Ali Guty
Refecting on my journey in the fashion industry, there was a moment that made me think, “This is where I belong.” It was the realization of how beauty standards are manipulated, and how, depending on the prevailing trends, one’s body type can be in Vogue or sidelined. The resurgence of 2000s fashion has brought back the ultra-thin ideals of that era, sidelining curvier fgures that once gained acceptance. I don’t like to see how our bodies are treated as mere trends, leading to a draining experience where opportunities diminish for those who don’t ft the “regular” model mold.

The cyclical nature of fashion trends often leads to the resurgence of past styles. The return of Y2K aesthetics brings back not only the fashion but also the body ideals associated with that era. This can perpetuate a narrow standard of beauty, sidelining those who don’t conform to these ideals. It’s essential to challenge these patterns and advocate for a more inclusive approach that celebrates all body types. Our presence and voices are essential in challenging these standards, advocating for genuine representation, and ensuring that fashion celebrates diversity in all its forms.

You move between high fashion and commercial work efortlessly. Is there one space where you feel most challenged?

I honestly enjoy both high fashion and commercial work, and I think they both bring something valuable to my experience as a model. Commercial work is very structured, there’s a clear order to follow, and everything is carefully planned to appeal to a specifc audience. I appreciate that because it teaches me discipline, adaptability, and how to work within a well-defned framework. It’s a great learning experience.
That being said, I feel more at home in high fashion. It’s where I feel the most creative freedom, where I can move, express myself, and contribute my voice. There are fewer limitations, and it’s not necessarily about making something that “makes sense” for a broad audience—it can be abstract, experimental, or even purely artistic. That level of creative expression is something I truly love.

So while I enjoy both worlds, I’d say I feel the most comfortable and fulflled in high fashion and editorial work.

If you could only wear one designer for the rest of your life, who would it be and why?

Jean Paul Gaultier is the frst high fashion brand that truly believed in me. I love the team, their values, and the community they’ve built. It’s a brand that feels full of life, authenticity, and meaning. JPG vibes deeply with the way I express myself and how I experience love, friendship, strength, and the divinity within me. There’s an undeniable sense of empowerment in everything the brand represents, and that’s exactly why I love it. If I had to choose one brand to wear for the rest of my life, it would be Jean Paul Gaultier, without a doubt. It gives me that strength and confdence that makes me feel like the woman I am.

shoes COPERNI

“Our bodies are treated as mere trends, leading to a draining experience where opportunities diminish for those who don’t fit the ‘regular’ model mold.”

Ali Guty speaks with Mark Ashkins
for LE MILE Ephemeral Edition - SS 2025 Nr. 38

Fashion thrives on the ephemeral. Do you see that as liberating or unsettling?

Both. The feeting nature of things can feel unsettling because nothing is permanent, but at the same time, it’s incredibly liberating. It reminds us that nothing is ever too serious everything fades, shifts, and transforms. Life itself is ephemeral. We try to hold on to control, to certainty, but the truth is, everything around us is constantly evolving: fashion, culture, our personal lives… Instead of resisting change, I think there’s power in embracing it, in letting it inspire us rather than unsettle us. Fashion is a refection of this fuidity, an invitation to play, reinvent, and move with the rhythm of time.

What’s a trend you loved but knew wouldn’t last?

The clean girl look, with glossy skin, laminated eyebrows, and polished buns dominate but fashion always oscillates between the immaculate and the maximalist. Life as trends are cyclical as we already mentioned, so what’s next?

The industry is fast, demanding, sometimes unforgiving. What keeps you grounded in it?

I know it's easy for me because I'm the same person in my personal life and working as a model, I have fun working while creating timeless art and memories that last forever. It's the way I express myself and I don't take everything so seriously, but the most important thing for me is to connect with others while working and inspire others along the way. The industry can be demanding, but I choose to see it as a moving space where there's always something new to discover. It anchors me in the idea that at the end of the day, the most important thing is to enjoy the process. I have friends who work in the industry and friends who have nothing to do with the fashion world, and I find balance in the people around me as well because they keep me connected to both realities.

People assume modeling is just about being in front of the camera. What’s the part of the job that no one sees?

What many don't see is the connection you build with people on set. It's not just about being in front of the camera, but about contributing creatively. Every day it feels frst day at work and also I love that. Sometimes, you're given the freedom to add ideas and be part of the creative process because, as the main character, you also have a voice. You're more than just a body; you have personality, opinions, and things to say. That’s how I experience modeling because of who I am and the way I approach it.
But there’s also a lot that goes on behind the scenes. The time spent alone, the rejection, the uncertainty. You never really know what will happen until the last moment in your life plans, and the idea of long-term planning in this industry is almost impossible. It’s an unpredictable journey, where you have to embrace the unknown and trust that each step leads to something new, even if you can’t always see the bigger picture. A LOOOOOOT of faith in the process.

If you weren’t in fashion, where would your creativity take you?

TV host, actress, casting director, model agent…There are things I still think about today. But most of my thoughts are still around the fashion industry.

Social media can turn a face into a brand overnight. How do you define success beyond the numbers?

For me, expressing yourself in a way that both inspires and allows you to be inspired is everything. It’s the heart of why I love social media and connecting with others. Social media gave me a lot of opportunities to be seen frst that model agencies for example did, it was where all it began. The true reward comes from using your success to create something meaningful that positively impacts those around you. It's about using your power and your voice for good and making a diference.

Is there something next already planned, or are you letting the moment decide?

This year, I decided to surrender to the process and let life take me a little, without planning too much, leaving many doors open to new possibilities. A few months ago, I started an acting course, and I’m excited about it. Nobody knows what will happen tomorrow, but I always have new concerns and new things to learn that will help me grow both as a person and as a professional. There is a saying in Spain: “Caminante, no hay camino, se hace camino al andar.” This refects the idea that life doesn’t come with a pre-determined path; it’s created through the actions we take, the choices we make, and the steps we choose to follow.

coat NEXT COUTURE
shoes COPERNI

shoes COPERNI

model ALICIA GUTIÉRREZ via JAG MODELS
photography + creative direction ARDEN
styling SERGI PADIAL
styling assistant PAULA SÁNCHEZ
retouch ISMAEL VILLAR
set design JORGE GARCÍA

set assistant BLANCA DE LA CIERVA
film developing + scanning CUARTO COLOR LAB
photo assistant NANO HERNÁNDEZ
second photo assistant MARINNA BORHAN
location RUGE STUDIO

Gordon Massman - Interview

.artist talk
GORDON MASSMAN
*The Single-Hearted Octopus

written + interview KATE HOAG

Gordon Massman is a Massachusetts-based poet and self-taught painter known for works too big for doorways, or polite living rooms—what he calls “shameless confessions of the human psyche.”

Drawing from Abstract Expressionism, confessional poetry, and Beat Generation literature, Massman creates works that balance deep psychological tension with a sharp wit.

Whether referencing myth, religion, or raw emotion, his work is guided entirely by instinct—part catharsis, part confrontation, and always unfiltered truth. In this conversation with LE MILE, Massman opens up about what it means to paint like Kodiak bear, seeing art as a single-hearted force, and using each brushstroke to expose the self and universal truths.

Gordon Massman
Cabinet of the Soul
Courtesy of the artist

Kate Hoag
You’ve said you “paint like a Kodiak bear attacking fresh carrion.” What does that look like in practice?


Gordon Massman
I paint with my stomach to survive. I squeeze colorful fingernails from tubes with which I slash the canvas. The meat tears in ragged lines which I have no interest in aesthetically purifying. My “skill” lies in rawness, imperfection, dominance—one might call it “un-skill.” In practice I fill my studio with grunts, curses, degradations; I break nails; I cry; I jubilate; I reject civility. At best my paintings resemble something savagely torn rather than neatly sliced with a knife and fork on tablecloth and chinaware. Ugly, like life itself, with its jealousies, betrayals, fears, compulsions, cruelty, demands. Painting is the catharsis of materializing emotion.

Your canvases are often impractically large. How does using a vast amount of space help you express what you’re after?


Rage cannot flow through needlepoint brushes. Nor can passion. Both require smashed up bristles and brushes thick as shovel handles. Likewise, only canvases torn from mizzen masts can contain the reflection of psychological pain, physical lovemaking, deaths of children, war and genocide, guilt and shame, the horror of roadkill. These are my subjects and fastidiousness on preordained practical canvases cannot contain it. I paint neither for money nor living rooms nor average size doorways. I’ve said this before: “There’s the tube of paint, the canvas, and the sum-total of your life. That is all.” I purposely omit critics, audiences, appeasements, conventions. Art is solitary, selfish, and practiced without compromise in a cave.

Although many of your paintings are “abstractions without identifiable subjects” others reference religious histories, political realities, or myths. What goes into deciding your subject for each work?

When I approach a blank canvas, I am innocent—a newborn. The instant I mark it, and again mark it, and mark it yet again, I begin maturing from baby to boy to adolescent to scholar to man to bitten prophet. Within this process, from the white fog, the subject appears—two vague faces, a human ribcage, a peacock riding a bicycle. The physical manifestation of the subconscious dictates my subject which does not become knowable until before me it galvanizes. At that juncture, I become a strong-handed, purposeful storyteller. I never identified as a Rorschach abstractionist, but rather, at my best, as a guide through our collective subconscious wilderness.

Your work often contains deep psychological tension while also using humor and vibrancy. Why is that combination important to you?

I inherited a rarely expressed sense of humor from my mother. On her hospice deathbed in late April, she thanked God for sparing her from the torture of another southern Texas blast-furnace summer. She found the upside to her own extinction. Oftentimes, profundity occurs at the collision of opposites, when for example, fine dining runs contiguous with rampaging revulsion. I do not like peaceful representations devoid of cogitation and conflict. As an incorrigible analysand, I prefer art to blossom outward from the deepest psychological kernel imbued with the weight of revelation, and yes, perhaps humor.

You have noted that Abstract Expressionism, confessional poetry, and Beat Generation Literature all shape your practice. How do these seep into your paintings?

Ted Hughes’s 1970 volume of confessional poems, Crow, with its blunt statements on love, greed, God, instinct, and survival released me to myself. For the first time this naive conformist realized the power of visceral truth, of taboo celebrated. It took two decades and an emotional crisis for me to enter this sacred realm of exquisite turmoil in the deepest regions of the mind and heart. I excavated obsessively and still excavate. Likewise, Jackson Pollock opened my mind to dictatorial urgency, damn tradition. These artists, along with many others, unlocked for me my very nature’s raging fire—independence, filthiness, brutality, courage, clarity of fact. This informs my best work.

Gordon Massman in atelier
seen Charles Carroll

“I paint with my stomach to survive.”

Gordon Massman speaks with Kate Hoag
for LE MILE .Digital

Gordon Massman
The Mad Draftsman’s Instruments
Courtesy of the artist

Gordon Massman
Apollo’s Little Cabinet of Distractions
Courtesy of the artist

You taught literature for years at The Massachusetts College of Liberal Arts and have written thousands of poems. Does being a poet influence how you paint?

I think of collective art as a single-hearted octopus residing in the gut with each appendage a genre—painting, sculpting, dancing, acting, writing, musical composition—one or two of which extrudes and writhes from the artist’s orifices. Artists are not the appendages but rather the life force of their octopus. Poetry is painting, painting is sculpting, sculpting is acting. It’s the life-furnace which creates, not the mode of expression. Every serious artist honors the fire, not the genre. For me poetry and painting are one in the same.

You often say your paintings are like “shameless confessions of the human psyche.” What are you confessing through your art?

The seven deadly sins, plus hilarity.

Your paintings have been described as having been unfolded in graphic, chaotic detail. Do you see the chaos in your paintings as a mirror of the world, or more of what’s happening internally?

I hypothesize that all living beings are one single organism nurtured by a worldwide interconnected subterranean root system of the psyche. As one being in that system, I strive to lay bare universal truths such as hunger, desire, insecurity, fear, self-hatred, megalomania, procreation, shame, and cruelty. I embody that, as does everyone but the godlike few. When successful, my paintings reflect simultaneously the world and myself, or, more aptly stated, the collective unconscious. I believe innumerable great paintings have been obliterated by overthinking.

Your new mirror works bring viewers inside the painting, literally and emotionally. What does the mirror mean to you in this new work?

I see my own brush meet itself when I paint a mirror, and my own hand clutching the brush, and my own posture, and my own expression. Gradually, I create upon my peaceful visage something strange and alien—a portrait-blob of my very subconscious, like a turbulent bog or science-fiction monster. I thrill at this decimation. I see myself unadulterated in the finished work. Finally, my inner being starkly stares back at me, who I am, what I am, what I am capable of, my conquest-fantasies. I may be hideous; I may be delectable. But finally, I am really me.

What’s next for you? And what else do you look forward to exploring in your work?

The future is unrevealed to me. I am the timeline of my own evolution. I can only perceive my present incarnation. Tomorrow, who knows. I could become a race car driver, an elephant whisperer, or the undertaker to my own death.

header Credit
Gordon Massman
Patriotic Fugue
Courtesy of the artist

Maayan Sophia Weisstub - Interview

MAAYAN SOPHIA WEISSTUB
*She Cuts the Body, Stitches the House, Feeds the Silence

written + interview JONATHAN BERGSTRÖM

As a multidisciplinary artist, Maayan Sophia Weisstub’s work examines the relationship between identity, space, and the broader human experience.

Based in the United Kingdom and a graduate of the Royal College of Art, Maayan works in sculpture, collage, and kinetic art, often centering on themes such as domesticity, gender, sexuality, and mortality. Her works have been exhibited internationally and have earned her recognition as a finalist for prestigious awards like the Robert Walters Group UK New Artist of the Year Award.

In this interview we speak with Maayan about her current projects, her approach to materials, and how she brings together the body, home, and identity in her artistic practice.


Maayan Sophia Weisstub
Courtesy of the Artist

The Bed, 2022
wood, foam, silicone
95 x 123 x 198 cm
Courtesy of the Artist

The Bed, 2022
wood, foam, silicone
95 x 123 x 198 cm
Courtesy of the Artist

Jonathan Bergström

Themes of domesticity, gender, mortality, and sexuality seem to be central to a lot of your work. What initially drew you to these subjects?

Maayan Sophia Weisstub
Sexuality, domesticity, gender, and death occupy my thoughts and are an inseparable part of my life, as they are an inseparable part of the universal human experience. The home represents a safe and protective environment- from the primal womb, through the family home and its transformations, to the final home where we will reside. It is a familiar and safe space on one hand, and on the other hand, it holds secrets and traumas.

As you’ve mentioned yourself, the domestic space has historically been seen as a place that restricts women. How does your work respond to or reframe that idea?

For example, in my sculpture The Bed, I give space to the traumas and violence that occur within our domestic environment. The bed, usually covered in our sheets, appears as battered skin, covered with bruises, scratches, and scars. In another work, Dine with Me, I present a dyadic configuration which embraces the concept of oneness between man and woman, symbiotic-patriarchal relationships, and the problematic nature of such dynamics.

What’s your process for creating one of your collages?

The process of creating a collage is relatively simple, at least once I have an idea. Once I have an idea, I either photograph or search for images as similar as possible to the visual concept I envisioned in my mind. Then, I combine the images and edit them into a collage on Photoshop.

What role do materials play in your practice, and how do you select those that enhance the emotional or conceptual impact of your work?

Usually, when I have an idea for a new piece, the concept appears intertwined with the material in its final form, and I can "see it" in my mind. This is why I work with and create in a variety of different media.
At the same time, there are the limitations of reality, and for some works that I would like to see in a particular material, I choose a more creative and practical solution.

How do you approach the creation of kinetic works, like your lightbulb sculptures?

Kinetic sculptures are technically complex, so when I have an idea for a kinetic sculpture, I develop the concept, create sketches and simulations, and when it comes to the technical execution phase, I work closely with technicians and professionals, guiding the process every step of the way.

“The home represents a safe and protective environment—on one hand. On the other, it holds secrets and traumas.”

Maayan Sophia Weisstub speaks with Jonathan Bergström

for LE MILE Issue 38 / Ephemeral Edition SS25

Familiar Fracture
The Vase
Courtesy of the Artist

Familiar Fracture
The Vase
Courtesy of the Artist

What do you want viewers to take away from the way you deconstruct and reassemble body parts and everyday objects?

I don’t want anything specific to be taken from my work; my creations are not didactic. I do, however, hope that my works evoke emotions, imagination, and creativity, connecting viewers with new ideas in the hope that they will resonate within them.

Your piece The Weeping Tap started as a video on Instagram. How does social media impact the way you create your art?

The Weeping Tap started as a video and was later uploaded to Instagram—it wasn’t originally conceived with Instagram in mind. Social media doesn’t have a conscious influence on my creative process; however, there is an acknowledgment of the dialogue that forms after the work is created. I feel its influence more in how I share my work—the immediacy and openness with which I expose my sketches or thoughts.

Duality is also a recurring theme in your work. How do you balance contrasting ideas, such as vulnerability and audacity?

Duality is an inherent part of reality, such as light and shadow. Whether the duality is overt or hidden, it will always exist, and it is what allows for depth. I don't aim to balance it but rather to give it space, to make the differences present, and through that, to reveal complexity and multiple layers.

How do you decide when to leave something open to interpretation versus when to make it more literal or explicit?

Even when the message is simple and literal, there is always room for interpretation, and anyone who experiences a work of art brings their personal perspective, which, in my eyes, enriches and enlivens it. Some works have a more straightforward and immediate concept, such as the video collage works on sexuality, which are playful and clear to the viewer. Other works, like 'The Breathing Table,' have a quieter concept and message, dealing with loss and memory, and require more patience as they are not immediate.

In addition to your visual work, do you have any interest in exploring other mediums, such as performance or sound art?

I am always curious about other and new mediums, and sound is very interesting to me. I really love sound, but unfortunately, I don't have much experience in the field. However, I would love to experiment and collaborate with more experienced creators. I also love and appreciate performance, but I don't see myself creating in this medium, at least not in the foreseeable future.

Are there any new directions or creative concepts you're planning to explore in your next body of work?

These days, I am very interested in the concept of the 'other' in society. As I delve deeper into understanding the meaning of the 'other' and its place in society, both culturally and socially, it naturally expands my awareness of the hidden parts within the depth of my unconscious.

Video Credit
The Weeping Tap
Courtesy of the Artist

ILONA - Interview

ILONA
*Always The Bride

written + interview HANNAH ROSE PRENDERGAST

"In some way, I always knew," ILONA says of her call to fashion. Born in Paris and raised in LA, the odds were set. In 2022, she made it official, launching her label on home soil.

Each piece is handmade with love, guided by self-taught haute couture techniques and the meticulous instinct of a Virgo. After all, psychological armor is heavy; the wearer must feel unbridled, deranged, and somewhat aggressive.

In this spirit, ILONA’s second collection, Psychosis, recounts her time as a teenager in a psychiatric hospital. Rather than relying on the darker, more literal tones often tied to mental illness, she stains warm off-whites and soft pastels for a more poignant touch.

The mood exists somewhere between frayed cotton, silk linings, weathered lambskin, distressed tulle—and lots of sparkle. Ask Esther. Here, ILONA emerges from under her rock, roaming the streets of Carroll Avenue in her own creation—a pink and gold lamé bridal gown with Calais lace.

ILONA seen by Miriam Marlène

ILONA seen by Miriam Marlène

ILONA seen by Miriam Marlène

Hannah Rose Prendergast
AS OF LATE

Ilona
I’ve been in LA planning some exciting future projects and taking a small break since the release of my latest collection.

LA EXPORTS

I brought back Betty Crocker fudge brownies and a sunny attitude, both lacking in Paris.

SHUTTER MEMORY

I got my first film camera when I was 16. It was a manual Nikon FM2, and I wanted to figure out how to use it. I had a photography teacher in high school who was really influential and taught me the ins and outs of the darkroom. It helps me today because I still shoot film occasionally and sometimes incorporate it into my work.

PLAY BY EAR

Music inspires me during the design process and keeps me going during the sometimes tedious sewing stages. I also always listen to music during my cigarette breaks and come up with new ideas.

BERLIN BRAIN

I moved to Berlin when I was 20 and knew only one person there. On a gloomy winter day, I decided to study neuropsychology. It was an enriching experience for which I’m grateful. I love Berlin and cherish my time there.

ILONA seen by Miriam Marlène

“After all, psychological armor is heavy; the wearer must feel unbridled, deranged, and somewhat aggressive.”

Ilona speaks with Hannah Rose Prendergast
for LE MILE Issue 38 / Ephemeral Edition SS25

NOBLE CAUSE

In the past, I struggled with the idea of working in fashion, thinking it was a selfish or superficial profession that didn’t contribute much to the world. As I’ve grown older, I’ve realized that the creative process of making garments makes me happy. Some people resonate with the clothes, and I’m okay with it being my calling.

CASTELLUCCI’S PARSIFAL

It inspires me to this day. The colors, costumes, and set design are insane. Castellucci creates a world like no other.

DEADSTOCK VALUE

I’ll continue using deadstock fabrics, as there is way too much waste in the world. I can also source unique couture fabrics I don't believe are made anymore. I like the individuality they bring to the garments.

NEVER THE BRIDESMAID

Most of all, I love the couture looks that take weeks to make. I included some more ready-to-wear elements for my second collection, which I hadn’t done in the first. I wanted some garments to be wearable every day. But I’ll always include a bride because I love to do it and think it really ties a collection together.

THE GOOD NURSE

I included quite a few nurses who were definitely my saviors during that time, as well as my friends who stuck with me through that traumatic period. I usually name my garments after my friends and people I love.

LAMB OF GOD

I sent Brodie Kaman pictures of all my stuffed animals, and we decided the lamb made the most sense. There’s a stuffed bunny that I've had since I was born, which I also included in some of the imagery for the collection.

LIGHTEN UP

Now, people think goth has more colors..

HAPPY IS

Iced coffee, puppies, cake, books, palm trees, my family, and my friends

NEXT LEVEL

I’m in a transitional phase of my life, figuring out where I might relocate as I plot my next collection.

LIFE ADVICE

Be delusional.

ILONA seen by Miriam Marlène

Ana Polvorosa - Interview

ANA POLVOROSA
*The Threads Are Still Moving

written + interview Alban E. Smajli

You see some actors once and that’s it — you’re in. Like a crush or a weird fever. You follow them through all their stuff, even the bad stuff, like they’re a cousin you sort of invented.

Then there’s the other kind — the shapeshifters. The ones who never show up the same way twice, who make you feel like you're watching them for the first time every time. Ana Polvorosa? She's that second kind. A glitch in the system. She’ll do twisted comedy, ghosts, heartbreak, mystery — whatever.

She folds roles inside out and wears them like borrowed jackets. Now she’s back, or sideways, or upside down, in Last Night at Tremore Beach, a Netflix storm-drenched, genre-melting thing, directed by Oriol Paulo and co-starring Javier Rey. And yes, she’s done it again, of course she has. What did you expect?

total look DIOR

Juan Marti
Ana, how have you experienced the days following the release of your new series, The Last Night at Tremore Beach?

Ana Polvorosa
Honestly, it's been a lovely few weeks. Many colleagues and dear friends have watched the series and left very positive comments. They're saying they really enjoy it and appreciate the work that went into it. So, overall, I'm really happy.

I’ve also watched the series, and I found it very intense. I have to admit that there are some things I think I didn’t quite understand …

Don’t worry. In the end, it’s a series that, precisely because it has so much to unpack and unravel, leaves room for many different viewpoints and ways to interpret it. This is due to how the story is told and what the series is like in itself. So really, don’t worry about that.

How did this project come to you?

Oriol Paulo, the director, got in touch with me and told me he’d written a story that was going to be adapted into a series format. He sent me the scripts and mentioned it was an adaptation of Miquel Santiago’s novel. He asked me to read them and share my opinion. I read the scripts and found the story fascinating on all levels, very… I don’t know, spectacular, impressive. What also caught my attention was how Oriol wanted to approach it, the perspective he wanted to give it. In short, there are many things, but what really connected me to the project was the character of Judy.

The series has a very complex plot, did you understand it during the first reading of the script?

Well, you obviously have to read it and reread it. Even then, there’s something in the story that makes you think way beyond what’s immediately apparent. But, for my taste, that’s what makes it interesting. It’s one of those stories that leaves you in a kind of limbo, like: “Is it telling me what I think it’s telling me, or is it really telling something else?” And that’s fine too, because it gives the viewer the chance and freedom to draw their own conclusions or have their own point of view.

Sometimes I feel like we’re too used to being given the answers instead of being allowed to ponder a bit …

I think right now we’re in a moment where we’re driven by a wave of action and reaction, quick responses, things made easier, so we don’t have to think too much or get stuck in universes that make us reflect or that allow room for different opinions. And it’s true that stories like this, at least, give us the opportunity for personal reflection and the chance to draw our own conclusions.

A story with so many plot twists and where the characters are not who they say they are must be quite a challenge as an actress. To what extent do you really need to understand what happens to your character?

It really depends, I think, on each project, each story, and where you are at the moment. It also depends on the colleagues you have, who is directing, and the vision they want to give it, how you feel with the character, or how you approach it. I think there are a lot of factors that influence how you approach all of that. At least, that’s been my experience. Maybe what I’m trying to say with this is that, in some cases, I start creating or connecting with the character from a more intuitive or sensory place, depending on how I live through the moment.

Did you discover Judy’s truths from the beginning, or did you keep being surprised by each script?

In this case, there was a previous novel that you could read or not. Then you have scripts to base yourself on, which are the ones you’re going to work with. Those scripts are written as they are, and you understand them as you read them. I mean, the way the information about the character comes to you is similar to how you later see the episodes.

You must have had many surprises!

In this series, the characters develop as the story progresses. I think that’s one of the hallmarks of the show, something that's really well done. I think Oriol has done this in other works and other stories as well—he often focuses on episodes that center more on certain characters, to delve a little deeper into their backgrounds. In this case, for example, you can see it in episode four or five, where the characters' past lives, traumas, or lived moments are explored. These elements continue to affect them, and in the end, it's not so important to know a character's pastto tell their present, but it certainly helps to understand them better.

As a viewer, do you like these kinds of series that make things easier for the audience?

Like everything in life, it depends on the moment you’re in. As a viewer, there are times when I feel like I want the story to be a little more complex, where I’m suddenly surprised or given something more "unusual." And other times, I prefer simpler stories, without flashbacks or unexpected twists, that are told from beginning to end, depending on how I’m feeling at that moment.

The series presents certain terrifyingly supernatural nuances. I think there are a lot of prejudices in the industry toward the horror genre, especially toward supernatural horror. How do you feel about these kinds of stories?

I think, in the end, what matters is that there’s some kind of relatively coherent justification, you know what I mean? Although, many times, I also like things that are... more "crazy" ideas, even if they’re a bit inexplicable. I don’t know, I think it’s not so much about wondering if a story has supernatural themes or something like that, because I’m not entirely sure what you mean by that. But I imagine you're referring to things that are more inexplicable, or stories that go beyond the ordinary. In the end, I think I focus more on the story itself, on what it wants to tell, what kind of story it is, rather than the twists or the themes it might explore or where it’s heading.

I love talking about supernatural experiences with my friends.

I don’t really pay much attention to those things (laughs).

Have you never experienced something supernatural?

Not that I’m aware of! Though I might have experienced something and just not realized it.

One of the things I liked most about the series was its foggy, menacing atmosphere. It’s a town that invites mystery …

I found the story attractive, and it also seemed like a great opportunity to work with Oriol. I’ve seen some of his previous works, and there are things I really liked. So, I saw this as a wonderful opportunity: to work with him, develop this character, and be part of this story. I don’t focus so much on whether the settings are more aesthetic or even more "flashy."

total look BIMBA Y LOLA

trench TERESA HELBIG
tights CALZEDONIA
shoes VERSACE

“Acting makes you evolve professionally, as an artist, as a creative, but also personally, a lot. You grow, you delve into other places, you mature, you learn.”

Ana Polvorosa speaks with Juan Marti
for LE MILE Issue 38 / Ephemeral Edition SS25

total look VERSACE

Are you a fan of mystery movies?

I think, initially, I’m interested in any kind of story. It’s true that, perhaps, mystery attracts me a bit more, but horror, not so much, actually. I don’t know, because then it’s true that sometimes I watch horror movies and think, "Hmm, I liked that." I’m not sure if, as a viewer, I usually focus on this type of story, but there are some films in this genre that I’ve enjoyed.

Would you like to work with horror filmmakers like Jaume Balagueró or Paco Plaza?

Why not? I’ll repeat a bit of what I mentioned before: within whatever genre it is, what really attracts me is the story itself. If there’s something in the story that connects with me, if the character touches me, and everything that the story encompasses, then yes, I’m interested. It’s not so much about the genre, but about what the story conveys to me.

Tell me about a piece of fiction that has touched you recently.

It’s true that right now I’m a bit disconnected, but what I’ve been able to do lately is read more. Look, I’m going to mention a book I just finished. I’ll tell you the author exactly because I finished it the other day, and I read it super fast. You know, those books that just grab you. I went to the bookstore to buy other books I needed, and suddenly I saw this one, The Vegetarian, and it caught my attention. It was written by Han Kang, the winner of the Nobel Prize in Literature this year, 2024. And, wow, it really disturbed me a lot. In fact, I read it very quickly, but that’s because it hooked me so much. What’s curious is that, when I finished it, I was really shaken. I mean, it affected me quite a bit. It’s a very disturbing novel, but at the same time, I find it fascinating. I got trapped in such dark and eerie worlds that… I don’t know, it was a strange feeling. Kind of in line with this more mysterious and dark genre.

I’m curious about what you did during your free time on the set of Last Night at Tremore Beach.

The truth is that, you know, during shooting periods, when I’m immersed in a project, I find it quite difficult to disconnect during the process. Well, I do disconnect, obviously, because when the shoot is over, I go home and have time for myself, but it’s true that I’m so immersed in the universe of the story… I don’t know, I tend to stay focused on the work, looking at the scenes for the next day or reviewing what I have coming up the following week. Sometimes, I even go back to check what we filmed the previous week to try to improve details. I’m really focused on all of that. As for disconnecting, well, the most we did was go out for dinner or make plans with the crew, because since we were shooting outside of Madrid, in Asturias and Barcelona, we formed a really close bond. Sometimes we’d step out of the characters’ bubble, but honestly, I didn’t do much to disconnect. I was very caught up in the universe of the story.

Isn’t it exhausting to get so involved at that level in your projects?

When it’s shoots like this, that deal with more delicate themes or, well, when the shoots are complicated, they inevitably affect you. There’s something you’re experiencing firsthand, and those complex themes, in some way, stay with you—in your body, in your mind.

How was the return to your life after a shoot like this?

Well, in this case, since the shoot was so long, and also intense, with a lot of commitment and responsibility, the excessive duration of the project added to it. Afterward, I needed some time to readjust to my daily life and routines. I mean, I had to normalize my life again, pick up my habits. I needed a period of time to settle back in because I was completely in another place, in a different context.

I guess it must involve a lot of personal work?

Yes, there’s a lot of personal work involved as well. It’s part of the process. For me, being quite reflective, I like to go over the moments I went through during the shoot, because in the end, that’s what leaves you with the learning, in some way. How have you evolved? Because shoots are incredible experiences. Acting, in itself, makes you evolve professionally, as an artist, as a creative, but also personally, a lot. You grow, you delve into other places, you mature, you learn. They are very powerful journeys.

What have you discovered about yourself during the shoot of Last Night at TremoreBeach?

Well, I’m still discovering myself. That’s not something that ends at the end of the shoot. It’s not like you finish shooting and say, "That’s it, I’ve got it all figured out." In fact, it’s been a year since we wrapped the shoot, in October or November of last year, and I’m still thinking and reflecting on many moments from the shoot. I’m still reaching conclusions about what it has taught me. So, I think it’s not something immediate, it’s not about finishing and knowing everything right away.

After this experience, don't you feel like doing something more naive and silly?

With stories, when they come to you, I think there has to be a connection, both with the story and with the character. When you read the scripts or when you get the casting calls, there has to be something that hooks you, something that makes you feel connected. Because if not, it doesn’t make much sense. I’m not sure if it’s something intuitive or sensory, I’m not sure how to call it, but it’s that feeling of reading the script and thinking: "Wow! Here’s something on an energetic level, something that connects with me and excites me." I don’t know, I think it depends on that, regardless of whether it’s comedy, drama, tragicomedy, theater, film, or television.

Are you an actress who is guided more by your head or your heart?

There’s a part of me that’s inevitable, a very passionate side, both with life and with my profession. That part is there, and it’s beautiful, I love it because I think it brings very intense things. But, of course, there are also moments when you have to stop, reason, think, and weigh things out. I don’t know, I think there’s a balance between both parts, depending on the moment.

What are you craving as an actress right now?

I think, precisely, what we were talking about earlier, about evolution, learning, and growth… I believe that stories come to you that move you from within, that make you say, "I want to dive into this, I want to explore it, I want to understand what this is, how I approach it, from what place I do it." It’s a continuous learning process, in the end. And that’s one of the most beautiful things about this profession, because you never stop learning, and at the same time, you never stop getting to know yourself.

suit BIMBA Y LOLA
earrings SUOT STUDIO
shoes VERSACE

total look ZIMMERMANN

talent ANA POLVOROSA
photographer DANNIEL ROJAS
stylist SERGI PADIAL
make up + hair MIGUEL ANGEL TRAGACETE for CHANEL BEAUTY + KEVIN MURPHY SPAIN
producer JULIA NAVARRO via SUNSEASANDS AGENCY
words JUAN MARTI
photo assistant JAVIER BLANCO
stylist assistant PAULA SÁNCHEZ

special thanks ESPACIO LA CANDELARIA + MESALA FILMS

Anxhela - Interview

ANXHELA Plays
*The Room Follows

written + interview ALBAN E. SMAJLI

Anxhela moves with steady momentum. Her sessions open when the day allows for it, tracks surface with the kind of weight that feels tied to place and time, and each one holds its shape without needing to explain how it formed.

She releases music in a way that suggests she’s already past the part where it needs to be explained — each piece arrives formed, quiet, intact, without scaffolding or commentary, and then lives where it lands. The tone across her output remains steady, and the surrounding space—both physical and digital—feels maintained with the same attention, creating a rhythm where every release holds its own position, shaped by a sense of timing that reflects the internal pace of her process, with no visible urgency or external structure, and everything aligned with a working method that keeps expression at the centre and lets the material speak without interference.

The same applies to how she dresses. There’s alignment without overthinking, detail without decoration. Each look feels connected to the environment she enters, whether that’s a small club, an outdoor stage, or a studio session in progress, and the alignment between sound, space, and image settles without commentary. Nothing leans toward performance and everything in view appears selected with quiet precision, creating an overall impression that builds naturally as part of the experience she’s creating, rather than functioning as a separate layer around it.

total look JUUN.J

Kosovo sits in recent memory — the kind of night that works in layers, with a familiar crowd positioned close to the stage, a set that held its shape across its full length, and a kind of energy that remained steady from beginning to end. Family watched. Energy held. Nothing overstated. Just the kind of connection that registers in the body and stays there for a while. Right now the work is happening in parts. Studio sessions, fragments, outlines, days where something clicks and the rest falls into place. The process stays active, shaped by the environment and the rhythm of her own attention, with new material appearing as part of that motion, guided by feeling and sustained by structure.

Playing live remains essential. The volume in the room, the faces, the architecture of the room and the way bodies move inside it. Each set builds on instinct, adjusted in real time, shaped by the way the crowd responds without language. She approaches the set as a whole structure, one that forms through presence and holds together through instinct, with every element placed deliberately and nothing overstated. The direction stays inward, the delivery stays exact, and the result maintains a kind of clarity that travels well beyond the night itself. That balance works. It’s already working.

total look DIESEL
jewellery ARCHIVED PROTOTYPES

jewellery ARCHIVED PROTOTYPES

Alban E. Smajli
Please, define your sound without limitations. What does it evoke, where does it live, and who does it belong to?

Anxhela
Yes,my sound is an emotional journey and it reflects what I feel, what I imagine, and what I want others to experience. I stay true to what moves me, but I also think of the listener because I’ve been on that side too, waiting to be transported by music.
Every track I play or create carries a piece of my mood, joy, sadness, energy, nostalgia. It’s a mix of instinct, emotion, and connection. My sound lives between my inner world and the dancefloor, and it belongs to anyone willing to feel something real.

Fashion and music—does one dictate the other for you, or do they move in tandem as part of the same vision?

For me, fashion and music move in harmony, they’re both expressions of the same inner world. Just like sound, what I wear reflects how I feel, what I want to say, and the atmosphere I want to create.
Sometimes a look can amplify the energy of a set, or help tell the same story the music is telling. I don’t see them as separate, they evolve together and complete each other as part of my artistic identity.

Albums seem like a relic, streaming is a battlefield. Where do you stand in this war for attention?

Streaming is important, it’s where people discover you, connect with your music, and follow your journey. But I don’t create just to grab attention. I create to express something real and to connect with the listener. Whether it’s one track or ten, the emotion behind it is what matters most to me. I released singles so far, because I like focusing on each track as its own story. Every release is a moment, a feeling, something I want to share without waiting for a full project.

At the same time, I really admire the idea of building something bigger, like an EP or album. I haven’t done that yet, but it’s definitely something I think about for the future. I don’t follow a fixed strategy or release constantly, I create when it feels right. But at the same time, I know how important it is to stay visible, especially today. So I try to find a balance: I want to stay true to my sound, but also be smart about how and when I share my work. I’m learning to combine both sides: the passion and the planning, without losing myself in the process.

total look JUUN.J Archive

“Every track I play or create carries a piece of my mood, joy, sadness, energy, nostalgia. It’s a mix of instinct, emotion, and connection.”

Anxhela speaks with Alban E. Smajli
for LE MILE Digital SS25

Are clubs sacred spaces, or are we witnessing the birth of something new?

I think clubs will always have a special place. There’s a certain and real energy you can feel there,but at the same time everything is evolving. Music evolves, and we see new collectives, new concepts and new ways to connect. I think we’re already in the middle of this change.
I love playing in clubs, but I’m also excited to explore other spaces and see how electronic music keeps evolving.

Festivals—have they lost their cultural significance, or are they evolving into something new in the live music experience?

I don’t think festivals have lost their meaning,I think they’re just changing, like everything else in music.
Today, festivals bring people together in a big way. It’s not just about the music anymore, it’s about the full experience, the community, the energy, the visuals, the feeling of being part of something. I think they’re evolving into something new, and that’s not a bad thing. As long as the music stays at the center, festivals can still be powerful and emotional moments, just in a different way than before.

Your music is a world of its own—what stories echo through it, and what emotions form its foundation?

My music is built on emotions. Every time I create or play, it depends on how I feel.
Sometimes I’m happy, sometimes nostalgic, sometimes sad, I try to express that through sound. I don’t follow one story, but I want the listener to feel something to connect with the mood. For me, music is a way to speak without words. It’s like sharing a part of myself, and at the same time imagining what the people on the dancefloor might need in that moment. I don’t follow one fixed story, it’s more like a journey through feelings.

If you could construct the perfect performance from the ground up—what does it look like, sound like, feel like?

My perfect performance would be in a special place, maybe outdoors, in nature, or somewhere unexpected. I’d want the music to be emotional, and full of energy. A sound that makes people feel something and takes them on a journey.

The lights, the space, the people, everything would come together. But the most important thing is the connection. I’d want everyone to feel free and present, just enjoying the moment with the music.

Kosovo—Europe’s youngest pulse. How did this performance come to life, and what was it like to play in a place so charged with energy and change? What’s next for you? A whisper, a roar, a new world?

Playing in Kosovo was a really emotional experience for me. I’m Albanian, and having my family there, people I love made it even more special.The energy was powerful, I could feel the crowd connecting with every sound, and I felt so free to express myself. It wasn’t just a performance, it felt like home.

What’s next?

I think it’s a mix of all three: a whisper, a roar, and maybe even a new world. I’m in a phase where I’m discovering myself more through music, step by step. I don’t always know where it’s going, but that’s the beauty of it. I just follow the emotion, stay true to what I feel, and let the sound lead the way. Whatever comes next, I hope it surprises even me.

dress HADERLUMP ATELIER
shoes DR. MARTENS
jewellery ARCHIVED PROTOTYPES

talent ANXHELA
photographer PASCAL SCHONLAU
production + styling BASAK SAYGIN
makeup & hair GIOVANNI ZUMMO
production assistant ANETA TARASEVICIUTE

Preston Douglas Boyer - Interview

.aesthetic talk
PRESTON DOUGLAS BOYER
*Styling Hope

written + interview SAVANNAH WINANS

Preston Douglas Boyer is a multidisciplinary artist working across some of the most mutable disciplines: fashion, fine art and music. Between his independent art practice and his busy schedule of collaborative projects, Preston has no trouble keeping up with these ever-evolving industries.

So far in 2024, he’s staged several public art performances, curated a 12-artist exhibition at Wienholt Projects, had a museum exhibition at LongHouse Reserve in East Hampton, released his album REPURPOSED RELIGION on Spotify, and dropped his first series of NFTs on Wise.art—and he’s got more in the works. Preston provides insight into how he stays grounded in our fast-paced world, whilst working towards his vision of the future of culture and creativity.

Preston Douglas Boyer
seen by Zach Gold

Preston Douglas Boyer
Single scanned element for upcoming zipper painting

“The only real constant between shifting mediums is the deeper reason why I create: to make physical representations of the spiritual experience.”

Preston Douglas Boyer speaks with Savannah Winans
for LE MILE Dazed Edition - Nr. 37

Preston Douglas Boyer
Forcing Forgiveness, 2024
at CALIFORNIA LOVE, Wienholt Projects
seen by Anya Gta

Preston Douglas Boyer
Detail shot of Triumphal Entry, 2024

Savannah Winans
As a multidisciplinary artist, you wear a lot of hats: painter, fashion designer, performer, musician, curator, et al. When you’re switching between these roles, what stays constant?

Preston Douglas Boyer
The only real constant between shifting mediums is the deeper reason why I create: to make physical representations of the spiritual experience. An exploration of the search for intimacy with God through beauty, whatever I understand that to be at the time. The theme of darkness to light also is a consistent theme in all of my work. Those are some elements at the core of everything I do when getting down to true causes and conditions.

What changes would you like to see in both the fashion industry and the art world?

I love seeing the fashion industry embracing the idea of performance art, which fashion inherently is in many ways. I really loved Rick Owens’s latest runway show with all of the models in a communal parade of sorts. Haunting and hopeful at the same time. As far as the art world is concerned, opening the gallery doors to more mediums of art that aren’t just wall-based works, and being able to sell conceptual and or performance works by fostering a collector base for these works. I think this is the future. We all love beautiful works on our walls, but art goes beyond that. And there’s beauty in minimalism in the home.

You recently curated the group show CALIFORNIA LOVE at Wienholt Projects. What defines California artists?

In a way, contemporary California artists don’t rely as much on the “art world” because historically the art world hasn’t been here as much. Artists had more freedom to make all sorts of styles and mediums of work and not be limited to just being a “painter.” The space and sunlight has an effect on the work and overall there’s less visible darkness, but often through the beauty, there is an underlying sense of distress, which I really sense for example while driving around this city.

Your zipper paintings have these beautiful custom decals on the zipper pulls. Some of them read “HOPE IS ALIVE.” What does this phrase mean to you?

This mantra reminds me that optimism is a choice. We can live in hope or we can live in despair, it’s up to us to choose on a daily, hourly or minute-by-minute basis. Individually and collectively. In the face of fear, uncertainty and pain, we can still have hope.

Your paintings can be zipped or unzipped, and one of your collectors commented that this was effectively “styling the painting.” Since you’ve also designed clothes, how does styling a person differ from styling a painting?

A model inherently brings their energy to a fitting or photoshoot, which can be a great collaboration, but when I’m in the studio alone it’s much more of a self reflective and contemplative process. I love fashion because it is so collaborative. At the same time, I fell so deeply in love with painting because it was such an immediate and intimate ordeal with myself, my pain, suffering, anguish, and God, if I allow Him into the studio that day. I try to think of life, and therefore my work, as a collaboration with Spirit, i.e. the my will vs. thy will paradox, and things tend to work out better that way when I’m able to surrender.

Preston Douglas Boyer
seen by Zach Gold

Luke Kruger-Aimone recording vocals for REVIVAL
the next REPURPOSED RELIGION performance
seen by Alex Conradt

“This mantra reminds me that optimism is a choice. We can live in hope or we can live in despair, it’s up to us to choose on a daily, hourly or minute-by-minute basis.”

Preston Douglas Boyer speaks with Savannah Winans
for LE MILE Dazed Edition - Nr. 37

Your paintings often incorporate abstracted corporate logos; it’s a Warholian gesture with a twist. How do these logos change the overall aura of the painting?

On a physical level, these large blocks and swathes of mainly black-and-white abstracted text provide structure to the compositions. Viewers may not initially know that they are looking at a distorted Blackrock or Björk text logo, but when they either find it for themselves or hear me talk about the work, the aura definitely shifts. The work becomes less about beauty and more about cultural critique. I strive for works that have a real balance between the two. But then the zippers come into play, and we look beyond the surface to a blank white wall, and that’s where our truth really is.

How does your spirituality influence your perspective on corporatocracy and the ways you critique it?

Money is not inherently bad. The love of money is where we run astray. God wants all of us to be abundant, but we are so quick to make money our higher power. Money is an exchange of energy, and, to say the least, there are extremely disparate financial realities happening concurrently. LA is such a prime example to be witness to this. The art world serves the .01%, the people who really do have dominion in this physical realm. I see my role as serving these individuals and being a teacher in their lives through my art, in addition to the physical objects I create that inherently have these challenging questions in their spirit.

What aspects of culture do you find most interesting right now?

There seems to be some semblance of a revival starting to take place. We’ve been living in this “post-truth” reality for some time now, and with the ever-increasing dependence on technology, and intentionally divisive energy being mainlined into the veins of society, there seems to be a pushback from a primal, spiritual level. A revival of realizing who we really are when we strip away everything culture tells us who we should think we are.

What’s next for you?

My fiance and I are planning our wedding, which is a major performance piece in itself in many ways! We are also working on the next RR performance work entitled REVIVAL, that will hopefully debut in September, with a second performance in another city later in the fall. I’m painting every day recently, and honing in on these zipper paintings.

Sun Yuan & Peng Yu - Interview

.aesthetic talk
SUN YUAN & PENG YU
*The Last Laugh

written + interview HANNAH ROSE PRENDERGAST

Ashes to ashes, dust to dust—everything returns to its original state, endlessly transforming. Art, too, is reborn with each encounter.

If you are lucky, you will find yourself as a Sun Yuan and Peng Yu original—a couple from Beijing who have been making art together for twenty-five years.
There are many great options.
If we look to Civilization Pillar (2001) for answers, what binds us is nothing more than liposuction fat. Yet you are far more complex—a silicone human capable of floating on water, soaring through the sky, and falling flat on land (not necessarily in that order).
From a dead fly on the wall to an industrial robot trapped in an infinite loop: the choice is yours.
At least, that is the idea.

(c) Sun Yuan & Peng Yu
Teenager Teenager, 2011

(c) Sun Yuan & Peng Yu
Teenager Teenager, 2011

“The distance between me and weapons is the distance between me and freedom.”

Sun Yuan speaks with Hannah Rose Prendergast
for LE MILE Ephemeral Edition - SS 2025 Nr. 38

(c) Sun Yuan & Peng Yu
Teenager Teenager, 2011

(c) Sun Yuan & Peng Yu
Can't Help Myself, 2016-2019

(c) Sun Yuan & Peng Yu
Can't Help Myself, 2016-2019

Hannah Rose Prendergast
You reposted Hey Brother (2022) after the U.S. presidential election results, writing, 'Although the future is full of uncertainty, we are together.' What moved you to express solidarity with the American people in that moment?

Sun Yuan / SY
Unity may not be so important, but people of different races and beliefs living in the same country and on the same planet must always face their relationships with one another. This is an eternal theme. The same piece of cloth connects two shovels; they wrestle with each other but cannot be separated. The tension created forms the internal relationship of a work. Likewise, the relationships between people within a country are the same.

Peng Yu / PY
People’s emotions were twisted with excitement and nervousness. Many countries, including China, delayed decisions and policy changes until the results were announced. As a result, methods of warfare in different regions will also shift. The entanglement of forces for survival shapes human relationships. Being together may be helpless and unavoidable—it can mean unity or struggle.

Freedom (2009) and Dear (2015) feature violently animated hoses in confined spaces, symbolizing the chaos of unregulated authority. What is the ongoing dialogue between these two works?

SY: The basic principles of these two works are the same, but one is powered by a water pump and the other by an air pump. It is like two people with different temperaments responding in a confrontation. Freedom generates tremendous force to strike the iron plate, while Dear thrashes into the chair and glass, leaving scratches behind. The recurring theme of struggle appears in many of our works.

PY: Some people see Freedom as a trapped dragon, while Dear represents the soul of a person controlled by power. Both express a natural, uncontrollable force.

The tension running through Open Sesame (2012) and If Seeing Is Not an Option (2013) stems from the fact that private gun ownership is illegal in mainland China. In 2002, you started building arsenals abroad with the help of Taiwanese and Swiss collectors. What does this separation mean to you?

SY: I need to possess weapons in my own way. Without weapons, you cannot have freedom. The distance between me and weapons is the distance between me and freedom. The feeling of freedom is strongest when you do not yet have it. Therefore, I cannot touch guns. This is the stage when they hold the most meaning for me.

PY: The title Open Sesame comes from the magical incantation that unlocks a treasure-filled cave in fairy tales. It symbolizes the gateway to a new world. If Seeing Is Not an Option was completed in Kyiv, Ukraine, resembling a weapons training camp inside the art gallery. Looking back, it seems like an early warning, a crisis-awareness training for what might come. I hope the young volunteers who participated in this work are all doing well. Our weapons caches are like tentacles in consciousness, with which we can feel and care for the world across dimensions.

Your use of live animals started and stopped in 2003 with Keep Dogs Away and Safety Island. Was this a conscious decision, or did it occur naturally over time?

SY: That was a conscious decision because the following works used the most cunning animal: humans. Animals cannot perform falsely—they do not follow commands, and instinct determines their behavior. Human nature is more complex. Not only do they have the combative traits of animals, but they also adopt strategies and schemes to achieve their goals. This is politics. I have always focused on and been interested in exploring these complex and instinctive relationships.

What draws you to working with animal specimens, including taxidermy? What do you find rewarding or meaningful in using it as a medium?

SY: An artwork is, in essence, a specimen of art. Creating art with specimens does not bring a sense of accomplishment. However, animal specimens help us imagine how the animal looked when it was alive. Similarly, artwork enables us to imagine the process of its creation—how it looks when conceived or deconstructed in our minds. In this way, the artwork gains meaning.

“Art cannot always develop according to the artist’s original wish. Sometimes, it needs to leave the artist and introduce the will of others.”

Peng Yu speaks with Hannah Rose Prendergast
for LE MILE Ephemeral Edition - SS 2025 Nr. 38

(c) Sun Yuan & Peng Yu Old
People's Home, 2007

(c) Sun Yuan & Peng Yu Old
People's Home, 2007

Can’t Help Myself (2016) is a friendly reminder that humans program robots. How does this piece comfort us in an era of rapid AI development?

SY: This work explores a relationship of mutual control—a dynamic that permeates every corner of the world, including social interactions. When the machine operates, viewers can immediately sense the entanglement and constraint within this relationship. By engaging their own bodily experiences, they can either confront or relieve this tension. Ultimately, the viewer develops an understanding of the work: empathy through shared form. However, I do not seek to impose specific opinions or suggestions; the meaning is for the viewer to interpret freely. My role is simply to provide a framework for 'gazing.'

PY: I like the word 'gaze.' It is different from appreciation or simply watching. Gazing involves doubt, and where doubt arises, interpretation follows. Finding an answer is humanity's way of saving itself. The answer offers a form of comfort without a definitive right or wrong. We must also gaze, doubt, and judge when artificial intelligence arrives. People fear the unknown but will find comfort once they obtain some answers. When we proposed this project to the Guggenheim Museum in 2005, most people were unfamiliar with the concepts of artificial intelligence, programming, and robotics. Some feared the mechanical arm might shatter the glass and escape. Today, it stands as a representative work ushering in the era of artificial intelligence.

How often has the ‘uncanny valley’ of your replica humans gotten you into trouble?

SY: I do not attempt to explore the "uncanny valley." This effect attracts the public, but to me, it is shallow. Therefore, I do not have high expectations for the reactions caused by imitating reality in the work. It is merely a guide, making it easier for people to immerse themselves, just like watching a movie. The more vivid and specific the actor’s image, the easier it is for the audience to enter the story.

If I Died (2013) represents Peng Yu’s mother’s perception of death. What did it mean to construct this for her?

PY: Perhaps it is precisely because of her bold conception of death that she lives so happily. Art cannot always develop according to the artist’s original wish. Sometimes, it needs to leave the artist and introduce the will of others. By relinquishing authorship, the artist gains a certain freedom—not much, but enough to deceive oneself. It is like showing an elderly person herwish. For her, it is both illusory and comforting. It is like knowing a religious statue is just a sculpture, yet still able to strengthen one’s faith and find comfort in it.

How has your perspective of impermanence evolved over the years?

SY: Impermanence is an inherent method of artistic creation. Artists must constantly make their works unfamiliar to avoid falling into a fixed pattern. Therefore, changes in impermanence cannot be a regular evolution. Once the change has a pattern, it is no longer impermanent. A predictable trajectory surprises neither the creator nor the viewer.

As artists who have been labeled “controversial,” what are your thoughts on cancel culture?

SY: Although it may cause controversy, I try to maintain a certain distance from reality. This helps me observe clearly and avoid getting trapped in the meaning or interpretation of reality. The superficiality and extremism of cancel culture are both a human need and a defining characteristic. People do not completely hate their flaws; sometimes, they even take pleasure in them—like smelling their farts or scratching an itchy mosquito bite. So, I neither support nor oppose it; I simply observe. When humans think, God laughs. To keep God laughing, humans can think a little more.

Why do you think the world is a fine place to fight for?

SY: I actually have no answer. However, if striving keeps God laughing a little longer, I am willing to try.

What is next for you?

SY: I have no plans ahead.

Guy Remmers - Interview

GUY REMMERS
*The Duke Goes Off-Script

written + interview Alban E. Smajli

There’s something about Guy Remmers. Maybe it’s the voice — precise but unbothered. Maybe it’s the posture — somewhere between centuries-old nobility and Gen Z’s nonchalance. Or maybe it’s the fact that he’s straddling about five different lives at once and making it all look impossibly casual.

You’ve seen him as Theo, the Duke of Tintagel, in The Buccaneers — Apple TV’s velvet-clad, chaos-laced, post-bridgerton fever dream of a period drama. He plays it with just the right amount of restraint and emotional slippage, like someone holding a glass of brandy they’re about to smash. Now, with Season 2 freshly dropped last week, and the one and only Leighton Meester joining the cast, Theo’s world is about to get flipped on its finely groomed head. No spoilers, but let’s just say Remmers is riding the heartbreak horse hard this time around.

total look ANN DEMEULEMEESTER

But The Buccaneers is just one thread in the tapestry. Before screen, there was stage — and before that, Bristol. Guy trained at the Bristol Old Vic and made his debut at The National Theatre in The Grandfathers, a moment he still talks about like a first kiss. “Being a Bristol boy at that age in London… that was the moment I knew,” he says, and you believe him. His presence off-camera feels less rehearsed. You might’ve seen him walk for Burberry, pose for Jimmy Choo, or drift across a moody editorial like he woke up in a 1970s issue of The Face. But fashion, he insists, is its own thing — something he enjoys, but doesn’t conflate with his work as an actor. Still, there’s a symmetry: both spaces let him play with image, identity, and what he calls “the evolving shape of masculinity.” You get the sense he’s aware of how he’s looked at, but not defined by it.

Ask him what he wants next, and he lights up. A detective role (“Life on Mars” energy), a comedy-drama à la The Thick of It, something American-accented. What you’re reading is a man who wants to stretch — not because he’s bored, but because he knows how good the view is from the edge. In an industry obsessed with immediate heat and viral cool, Guy Remmers is moving differently. He’s not here to be loud. He’s here to last.

total look ANN DEMEULEMEESTER

Alban E. Smajli
So you’re the Duke of Tintagel—old money, stiff collars, and then boom: American chaos. What made you say yes to Theo, and how did you find your way into all that aristocratic angst?

Guy Remmers
Thank you! Theo's constant battle with the benefits and disadvantages of his title has always fascinated me. I did a lot of work on what his upbringing would have been like and how he physically carries himself and speaks. A lot of suppressing his emotions but the really exciting part was then allowing him to be swept off his feet by this new unique ball of energy from overseas. 

Season 2’s loading, Leighton Meester’s crashing the party, and Theo’s still stuck between duty and desire. Where’s he heading this time—and what happens when fresh blood hits old money?

New faces and characters are super exciting as it means you get to meet and work with incredible new actors. I loved seeing how they all seamlessly intertwined into the story. Theo's journey in this season is an absolute rollercoaster and his world flips upside down when he has to decide if love is more important than the institution he has been born into.  

You started on stage, Bristol Old Vic, National Theatre, all that velvet and sweat. Now you’re in streaming land. What do theatre and screen give you that the other can’t?

They are both magical in slightly different ways. I haven't done theatre in a few years now and the thing I miss most is the feeling of being part of an ensemble where you all rehearse together and feel like one organism. The Buccaneers is an ensemble cast but it is rare for us to all be on set at the same time. But I have now done two seasons of seeing the world through Theo's eyes and growing with him and that is equally as special.  

You’ve done Burberry, Jimmy Choo, the whole fashion orbit. What itch does that scratch that acting doesn’t or is it all just dress-up in different lighting?

I feel very lucky to have done those things, especially as I have a love for fashion. To me they are completely separate, neither offers me something that I would need from the other.  

You move between film sets and fashion shoots, all soft tailoring and sharp stares. Do you see yourself as part of a generation that's reshaping what masculinity looks like, or does all that talk just feel like another box to be put in?

I definitely feel like 'masculinity' is evolving into more open and expressive ways and I think one strong representation of that is in fashion. I hope it keeps moving in that direction. 

You’ve done corsets, campaigns, a bit of everything in between. Is there a role or genre still lurking on your wishlist, just waiting to be cracked open?

I've always wanted to play a detective, that would be super cool. I loved watching police dramas like 'Life on Mars' and 'Ashes to Ashes' when I was younger, I think that's where my love for them started. My favourite TV series is 'The Thick of It' so I'd love to do a comedy drama in that tone too.  Also a big goal is to do a role in an American accent.  

Was there a moment where it all just clicked and you thought, yep, this is it, this is the thing I’m meant to do?

When I was 18 I did a play called The Grandfathers at The National Theatre - it was an extremely special experience. Being a Bristol boy at that age in London doing a play at that theatre was the best feeling in the world and a moment that I knew I was doing what I wanted to do for the rest of my life. 

total look PAUL SMITH
shoes JIMMY CHOO

“I definitely feel like 'masculinity' is evolving into more open and expressive ways, and I think one strong representation of that is in fashion.”

Guy Remmers speaks with Alban E. Smajli
for LE MILE Digital SS25

blazer + beret EMPORIO ARMANI
trousers ANN DEMEULEMEESTER
vest SUNSPEL

coat + trousers ISSEY MIYAKE
shirt DAVID KOMA
trainers ADIDAS X WALES BONNER

jacket + trousers Y-3
shirt BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
boots DAVID KOMA
gloves HANDSOME STOCKHOLM
tie TURNBULL & ASSER

“Theo's journey this season is an absolute rollercoaster. His world flips upside down when he has to decide if love is more important than the institution he was born into.”

Guy Remmers speaks with Alban E. Smajli
for LE MILE Digital SS25

total look VERSACE

total look DANIEL W FLETCHER
trainers ADIDAS x WALES BONNER

photographer ANTONIO EUGENIO
stylist JUSTIN HAMILTON
grooming TRAVIS NUNES
photo assistant GEORGE TAYLOR
styling assistants KATIE SOMAVIA, LORNA LANE
videography VALENTINA VILLA
talent GUY REMMERS

Special thanks to Caroline Fergusson + Grace Yeoman, PR Pinnacle

Wanda Lephoto - Interview

.aesthetic talk
WANDA LEPHOTO
*Fabric As Archive

written + interview ALBAN E. SMAJLI

Wanda Lephoto builds narratives in fabric. His work is a continuum of history, community, and identity, shaped by memory and lived experience. Fashion carries weight, holds space, and restores what has been lost.

His Johannesburg-based label moves through cultural currents, weaving together ancestral knowledge and contemporary expression. Each piece exists with intention, shaped by deep research and a commitment to craft. Materials tell stories. Silhouettes hold memory.

Threads connect past, present, and future. Recognition follows, but the purpose remains. Lephoto’s approach prioritizes ethical production, local artisanship, and material integrity. He moves with purpose. Each stitch marks a place in time. Each piece speaks beyond the surface. Each collection expands the conversation.

trench coat NTWANA
shirt + pants WANDA LEPHOTO
shoes MAISON MARGIELA

photographer THANDO NXUMALO
stylist PEYTON JOE BASSON
talent and designer WANDA LEPHOTO
photo assistant BONOLO TLHOLOE
stylist assistant AYANDA KANISE

follow designer @wandalephot

“I design for a person I envision—someone who doesn’t yet exist in the ways I’ve seen.”

Wanda Lephoto speaks with Alban E. Smajli
for LE MILE Ephemeral Edition - SS 2025 Nr. 38

total looks WANDA LEPHOTO

Alban E. Smajli
What does fashion allow you to say that words can’t?

Wanda Lephoto
I think fashion allows me to express my love and gratitude toward a people, a culture, and a history in a deep and meaningful way—something words, especially English words, often fail to convey.

South Africa, 2025. What does the landscape of fashion look like to you—raw, evolving, defined, or still untamed?

Oftentimes, it feels as though things are improving, with increasing visibility for designers striving to push boundaries in a complex country like South Africa, where much unlearning still needs to happen. I would say South Africa’s landscape embodies all the words you mentioned—raw, evolving, defined, yet still untamed—due to our complex history, which requires careful navigation. Over the past decade, we’ve seen tremendousgrowth. The next ten years will be pivotal in shaping the future of fashion—not just for our country but for the entire continent.

Your work moves between tradition and now. Do you see yourself as a translator, a disruptor, or something else entirely?

To honor, in the best way I can, those who came before me, fought, and shaped the context in which I now exist is fundamental to what we do. I am because we are—a philosophy rooted in our continent's teachings, emphasizing the human spirit and the essential role of each person in shaping and developing new ideas. This belief is dear to my heart, making the honoring of tradition pivotal to our creative process. Neither translator nor disruptor. I see myself as someone who fosters plurality—bringing together communities, conversations, cultures, and traditions in diverse spaces to create propositions for newness. It’s about shaping a different way of seeing and being, but even more, a different way of believing.

What’s the hardest truth about building a fashion label in Africa that no one talks about?

It’s a lonely feeling. The hardest part, for me, is that when we win, we win together—but when we lose, I lose alone. That can feel isolating. The financial setbacks. The emotional, mental, and spiritual weight of carrying it all alone. The responsibility of dreams—not just your own, but those of so many who rely on you.

Who do you design for—the person who wears your clothes or the culture that shapes them?

I design for a person I envision—someone who doesn’t yet exist in the ways I’ve seen. I design for the culture and community that believes in me—whose stories are often neglected but deserve to be seen and celebrated.

I design for those who shape culture alongside me—who, like me, believe in the individuality of our journeys yet the shared responsibility of dreams. I design for those who are no longer with us, but whose memories and stories live on—as a way of ensuring they are never forgotten.

I design for future generations who will inherit, through spirit, the importance of our collective work in shaping history—understanding that for us, it’s more than just clothing.

total look WANDA LEPHOTO
shoes DR MARTENS

What fuels your process—memory, instinct, resistance?

My process at this point in my design journey is hugely fueled by memory and resistance. I believe in honoring where we come from, because there is a lot of healing that needs to happen in the works we create —works that begin to fill the void of the missing archives we have lost. In the future, I know this will evolve. But for now, this remains the cornerstone of our work—restoring pride and memory of where we come from. The sentiment being: from the dusty concrete, a flower can bloom.

If you stripped everything away—labels, industry, expectations—what remains at the core of what you do?

The stories.

Africa has always dictated global culture, whether the world acknowledges it or not. Where do you see its biggest creative shift happening right now?

Africa is the heartbeat of fashion. Right now, I’m fascinated by the cultural fusion happening with high-low fashion, real/fake fashion, and western/traditional styles. The mixing of colonial dress with traditional dress.

The blending of thrifted dupes from Europe with real high-end fashion—which, in many ways, is a metaphor for how western fashion has become destructive to itself. All of this exists alongside the growing pride in wearing African fashion brands—brands that celebrate craftsmanship and culture through design.

Ephemeral. Fleeting. Unstable. How does that word sit with you? Is fashion ever meant to last?

Fashion is meant to last forever—not just as clothing, but as a feeling, a memory of a time that meant everything to us.

If clothing could dissolve at the end of the day, leaving only its impact, what would yours leave behind?

I think my clothes would leave behind the stories of a people, a group, a community—and, hopefully, a continent. Though history sometimes makes us feel as though we should be ashamed, the stories we carry are far more beautiful than any hardship we have endured.

We have true culture and community. We have true design and philosophy—something beyond mere aesthetics or financial trends, something that defines who we are.

Sam Salter - Interview

.aesthetic talk
SAM SALTER
Soft Power

written + interview Chidozie Obasi

31-year-old Sam Salter is damn good at making wraps and cookies. His top picks? “Chicken fajitas, oh my Lord, I love them! I'm honestly obsessed with chicken and beef wraps at the moment,” he shares. “I also like an Asian-style sweet potato mash with fish, like salmon; I have a very sweet tooth.”

But it isn’t his proclivity for a double dose of carbs that landed the London-based dancer his fearless gumption and a great path in the making; that was all down to his impressive creative chops.

coat FLORENCE BLACK 1954
sweater DIOR MEN
shirt PENCE 1979
pants DOLCE & GABBANA
necklace LAG World
loafers CHURCH’S

blazer FERRAGAMO
gilet FENDI
shirt HARMONT & BLAINE
pants LABO.ART

“I'd say I'm a living and breathing artist, and my path has been like an umbrella made of different avenues that I've been pursuing over the last three-to-four years.”

Sam Salter speaks with Chidozie Obasi
for LE MILE .Digital

jacket ZEGNA
blazer TELA
t-shirt CHB CHRISTIAN BOARO
pants FERRAGAMO
necklace SWAROVSKI

“I’ve been dancing since I was the age of eight, and I always wanted a life of variety,” he opines, the moment we begin to settle into our conversation. “I always wanted to push my boundaries in my career, and I never thought I would be in the position that I'm in now with what I've accomplished—coupled with the things that happened in my life—but it all came with a lot of hard work. I'd say I'm a living and breathing artist, and my path has been like an umbrella made of different avenues that I've been pursuing over the last three-to-four years.”

The first moment that Salter realised dance was the key element needed to kickstart his creative career was very early on. “I was eight years of age, and it was an amazing moment that I remember my mum asking If I wanted to go try a dance class,” he says. “It just felt like the most incredible moment where something clicked in my body and brain. And I mean, don't get me wrong, I was probably terrible. But I just remember absolutely loving it.” Before that, Salter was a really competitive horse rider. “I would horse ride every single day after school. I loved it. And I was good at it too, like I was a really strong candidate.”

Salter wasn’t a kid that grew up watching dance on television or across the media. “However, there was a programme in America called So You Think You Can Dance, which I remember when I started getting into dancing. And watching American dancers felt great, because they’re incredible,” he says. “Funnily enough, in recent years I've connected with them online.”

Salter trained at the Sylvia Young Theatre School in London and the Delay Theatre Arts in Surrey, projecting into roles across the spheres of musical and ballet—namely, Mary Poppins, Wicked, Swan Lake, The Nutcracker—that marked few turning points from an early stage. “I suppose there were two,” he reflects. “The first one was when I was at Sylvia Young, and my peers in my year never thought of me as very talented. But I worked my absolute arse off and I just remember being obsessed with it,” he says. “Then there was this one class where I got picked out to do a solo: all my friends were like, ‘Oh my god, Sam, you're like a really good dancer!’ It just happened, and I remember everyone came up to me, which made it a really special moment.”

jacket TOD’S
shirt DUSAN
polo TOMMY HILFIGER courtesy of ZALANDO
pants TOD’S
shoes SEBAGO

total look LOEWE

“I'm a very proud out gay man, and I will always fight for the community and believe that we should be treated just like everyone else.”

Sam Salter speaks with Chidozie Obasi
for LE MILE .Digital

blazer TAGLIATORE
shirt TOMMY HILFIGER

shirt + tie TOM FORD
tank top CHB CHRISTIAN BOARO
pants JIL SANDER by Lucie + Luke Meier

Moving on to deeper territory, Salter has spoken openly about the struggles with mental health, which led to phases of addiction. Years on, he feels he’s on a good path and on a good ground, both emotionally and physically speaking. “I feel amazing right now in terms of my sobriety, and I feel like I'm in a really great flow with it: I've been in and out of sobriety for a long time,” he opines, with unguarded honesty. “And what I can say is that whenever I'm sober, I feel my ultimate best in so many ways; truth be told, my personal life hasn’t been great in the last few months. I felt a bit flat, uninspired, and lost because I hold my career to a really high level. I'm a workhorse.”

Salter has hustled hard with his goals between dance and social media, trying to build branding and working with luxury households. “It took years of trying to get this. So when things are quiet for me in terms of work, I feel my mental health dips.” But what is really special for Salter right now is his sobriety. “Even though I feel like I'm having a little bit of a life dip, which happens, I'm still thriving overall because I am clean and sober and I'm not getting myself into any sort of trouble.”

As we walk through the emotional depths of his inner self, I cannot help but wonder where these complex phases of his life stemmed from. “I think addiction stems from a lot of stuff like growing up and not feeling quite good enough, as I was a very shy kid and I always wanted to feel more confident. And we all know that certain substances can make you feel more confident. So they were hand in hand for me; I was finally this confident, attractive in a way guy. And I’m actually naturally quite a shy person and insecure. I have insecurities.”

Salter’s been in therapy for years, trying to untangle these emotional complexities. “I think if people looked at me online they would have a different perception of me. I would work on no sleep and it was dangerous for my body. I was doing these crazy shows, you know, with no sleep. But I don't think that the entertainment industry really was the catalyst into all of this kind of stuff.”

On the entertainment industry’s hardships, he speaks openly. “I've definitely worked on jobs where I haven't been the happiest because of egos,” he admits. “I remember I once got booked on a tour to be the leading man, and I found out through a show fan that I'd been cut. I don't know why they ended up getting rid of me, but that was like a tough pill to swallow. And that was something that I found quite challenging. Like this is, it was just done in all the wrong ways.”

shirt PRADA

blazer TAGLIATORE
cardigan CANALI
tank top DIESEL
shirt TOMMY HILFIGER
shoes CHURCH’S

However, his reckless pursuit of optimism took Salter to new heights, bringing forth a major deal that sparked an equally major moment. “One of my favourite jobs I've ever done was the Wonka dance buddy,” he says. “I looked after Timothee Chalamet on Wonka: I'd help him rehearse the role, I would dance his double, step in, give him notes on dancing and so on. That was super special because I love being on set. Films are so exciting, and I'm a big fan of his work.”

Salter also made his acting debut, a short film titled I Need You To See Me: in this project, he plays a substitute dance teacher navigating a complex and intense relationship with his mentee. “It was like a two man scene happening in a dance studio,” he recalls. “It was really intense and a lot of work, but it was an incredible experience.” The director reached out to him a few times and Salter ignored him at first. “I always wanted to try it, but I was a little too scared and I thought there were things in my way and I had a lot of worry and fear about it.”

Navigating the dynamics of LGBTQ+ storytelling is key for Salter. “I'm part of it, so I always advocate to push for it,” he asserts. “I'm a very proud out gay man, and I will always fight for the community and believe that we should be treated just like everyone else.”

Soulful and vibrant in equal measure, Salter spills further doses of joyful optimism and hope as we draw our conversation to a close. “I plan to continue training, and I want to keep doing my castings for acting as I’d like to keep pushing my boundaries,” he concludes. “I'm really proud of the work I've achieved so far, and I want to keep pushing as much as I can, whether that's as an actor or a choreographer or a dancer or all of them. I just want to be giving it my everything.”

team credits

seen COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion director + stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordinator DAVIDE BELOTTI
make up KIM GUTIERREZ via STUDIO REPOSSI
hair ALEXANDER MARKART via BLEND MANAGEMENT
talent SAM SALTER

photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
fashion assistants LUCA MICELI + LORIS VOTTERO + CLOE RUBINATO + ALICE CANNITO + ANNA REGAZZONI + JORDAN MAX BAGLIONI

Gab Bois - Interview

.aesthetic talk
GAB BOIS
*Endless Playground

written + interview TAGEN DONOVAN

Gab Bois possesses a rare and almost alchemical ability to take the mundane and twist it into something extraordinary, something that lingers in the mind long after you’ve looked away. Bois’s work doesn’t just sit quietly in the background—it demands attention, not through loudness, but through its quiet valour.

By taking the everyday, the objects we barely glance at, and reimagining them into striking, surreal creations that challenge not just our ideas of design and functionality, but our very perception of reality itself. A pair of boots crafted from old keyboards, earrings fashioned from I-phone cameras—these are not just whimsical ideas; they are provocations, invitations to see the world differently.

What makes Bois’ work so compelling is not just the cleverness of her visual puns or the precision of craftsmanship, though both are undeniable. It’s an innate ability to weave together humour, intrigue, and a deep sense of aesthetic playfulness. Each piece exists in a space where the familiar becomes strange, and the strange becomes oddly familiar. It’s a space that feels both futuristic and nostalgic, as if she’s tapping into a collective memory of childhood make-believe while simultaneously pushing us toward a new way of seeing. Each image doesn’t just ask, “What if?”—it insists, “Look again.”

Gab Bois
seen by Joseph Davies

(c) Gab Bois

Bois’ artistic journey is one deeply rooted in curiosity, a trait that pulses through each visual story she creates. Growing up in a creatively rich environment, Bois was exposed early to the power of visual storytelling. Her father, a painter, introduced her to the language of imagery, a language she now speaks fluently, though in her own distinct dialect. Through this creative trajectory, Bois has etched out her own niche of visual expression, a vast terrain where possibilities stretch into eternity, folding worlds within worlds. Within these spaces, Bois orchestrates a new vocabulary, whereby a cocktail dress made of Scrabble tiles isn’t just a playful costume—it’s a commentary on language, identity, and the ways we construct meaning.

Her visual style is a melting pot of influences—design, fashion, pop culture, and advertising—yet it feels entirely her own. Growing up in the age of selfies and self-representation, Bois has a keen understanding of how images function in our digital age. Extending an open conversation with the viewer, lending itself to an intimate exchange that bridges the gap between artist and audience. There’s a sense of shared understanding, as if to say, “You’ve seen this before, but have you really looked at it?” Through this connection, Bois invites us into her world, a world where the ordinary is anything but.

At the heart of Bois’ practice is a fascination with paradox. A practice that exists in the liminal space between reality and simulation. She plays with these tensions, creating pieces that feel both timeless and of-the-moment. In a world dominated by endless scrolling and fleeting attention spans, we are invited to pause and engage, even to reconsider the forms we encounter every day but rarely truly see.

“It feels like my playground is constantly getting bigger, giving me the opportunity and privilege to work with whatever materials my concepts call for.”

Gab Bois speaks with Tagen Donovan
for LE MILE Ephemeral Edition - SS 2025 Nr. 38

(c) Gab Bois

(c) Gab Bois

(c) Gab Bois

Tagen Donovan
Let’s start at the beginning. How did your early artistic influences shape your creative perspective, and in what ways has this visual language guided your approach to storytelling?

Gab Bois
My creative practice has always been deeply rooted in the sense of wonder I felt as a kid, my wonder of objects and curious perspective of the world. I’ve tried to construct a visual language that blends elements from my childhood play and my teenage Tumblr days, in which I continue to tell a story.

The idea of working with what you have in front of you is a recurring theme in your art. Do you see this as a direct extension of your childhood experiences, or has it evolved into something more conceptual as your practice developed?

I’d say it’s a product of both. My creative practice has always been shaped by my surroundings—a continuation of childhood days spent playing outside and collecting objects. Over time, though, my career has given me access to more resources. It feels like my playground is constantly getting bigger, giving me the opportunity and privilege to work with whatever materials my concepts call for. The spirit of my practice is still the same: playful and rooted in my environment. But the process has definitely evolved, especially when working with briefs and as part of a team.

Your work often features a blend of humor, discomfort and beauty found within the mundane. How do you select objects for your pieces? Is it a meditative process or something more instinctive?

It’s definitely an instinctive exercise—I’m drawn to objects that catch my eye aesthetically. Since my practice is grounded in time and place, I usually gravitate toward objects or themes that feel current, whether they’re seasonal or flooding my explore page.

Blending elements of conceptual art, sculpture, and fashion with a playful and thought-provoking edge creates the tapestry of your practice. If you were to describe the genre or identity of your art, how would you define it? Or is there an element of transcending labels and boundaries?

I don’t usually try to describe my work, but I love when people who know art history connect it to other movements or genres. I don’t really have the knowledge—or the urge—to place myself within the larger art landscape, though I’m not opposed to it. I’d say my work is conceptual, and my practice is more about a general vision than sticking to a specific medium. I see it more as a special sauce that I can adapt to any dish.

In the age of the infinite scroll, your work creates moments of reflection, inviting viewers to pause and view the ordinary through a different lens. All while tapping into our innate sense of curiosity amidst the rapid consumption of content. How intentional is this aspect of your work?

Thank you for framing my work this way—that is very kind. Creating work that calls for a moment of reflection or pause is definitely something I aim for. I think everyone has a personal gallery of images that stick with them—or at least I do. If my work becomes part of someone else’s mental gallery, that is awesome. But if people keep scrolling past it, that won’t stop me from making more. I’m well aware that most of us are overwhelmed by images daily, and I can’t control if my image will cut through this. What I can control—and what I think has been a strength of my practice—is building a distinctive visual universe.

Captions evolve into titles for each piece, while the comment section transforms into a dynamic space for recontextualisation and community dialogue. What is it like to witness, in real time, how your work sparks conversations and invites fresh interpretations from your audience on social media? Have you ever been surprised by how it's interpreted?

It’s funny you say that because I feel like this was especially true when I first started sharing my work online. People were very engaged and the comment section was very dynamic, so many people shared strong feelings, positive or critical. The Instagram landscape has changed a lot in the past few years, and I’ve noticed people interact much more with reels than with still images now. My comment section feels a lot calmer now. It’s mostly a mix of love, clever puns, or references of work that people are reminded of, which I enjoy learning about.

You’ve previously mentioned your father’s ability to“talk with images”,which resonates with your own approach to creating art. Do you see your work as a continuation of this legacy, or have you reinterpreted it in your own way?

Great question. I see it as both. Having a child is merging your essence with someone else’s, creating something entirely new, never just recreating yourself. In that sense, I owe a lot of my creative practice, passion for art, and craft to my dad. That said, our artistic processes and inspirations are quite different, though there is most likely overlap in the way we both approach art on an internal level.

The theme of this issue is EPHEMERAL—the fleeting, raw brilliance of the present. How does the concept of impermanence manifest in your work, especially in a world where images and ideas are so quickly consumed?

I like to think of my work as surreal time capsules, each piece captures my inspirations from a specific time and place. I also draw a distinction between the physical object and the photo or video of it, seeing the act of capturing the object as the time capsule itself.

I am very inspired by the Tibetan Buddhist practice of creating sand mandalas. I like to be as invested in the process as in the final tableau, but not so much in the outcome once the work leaves my hands. I don’t mind spending hours on something that might be shared and then forgotten. In my experience, something doesn’t have to be framed or looked at every day to be real or valuable.

In your "Canapés" collection, you transformed everyday food items into wearable art. What challenges did you face in translating your photographic concepts into physical fashion pieces?

When creating Canapés, my intention was to explore both the design and production processes of wearable accessories, while considering functionality alongside aesthetics. One of the biggest challenges I faced was the balance between form and function. In my creative practice, I’ve always prioritized form, but I quickly realized that to make these pieces wearable and functional, I’d have to make certain compromises. I learned that when something is comfortable and practical, it enhances its overall appeal and becomes more beloved. In the end, the compromise doesn’t end up being a compromise at all.

—follow @gab_bois

What’s perhaps most striking about Bois is her ability to move fluidly across disciplines—without losing the thread of her conceptual vision. Entirely self-taught, a fact that underscores the raw, instinctual nature of her creativity. Bois’s work feels alive, as if it’s constantly evolving, driven by an insatiable curiosity and a passion for bringing ideas to life. This evolution is evident in her recent projects, which expand her practice into new territories. While experimenting with interactive elements, designing wearable objects, and exploring new media to push her artistic vision beyond the confines of the screen.

Le Mile’s EPHEMERAL issue explores themes of impermanence and raw creativity, Bois’ work feels particularly resonant. It’s a celebration of the fleeting brilliance of the present, a reminder that even the most ordinary objects can become extraordinary if we’re willing to see them in a new light. In this exploration of her practice, we delve into the inspirations that fuel her creativity, the evolving relationship between physical and digital creation, and how she navigates the impermanence of contemporary visual culture. But perhaps more importantly, we consider what her work asks of us. It’s not just about appreciating her art; it’s about questioning our own perceptions, about finding the surreal in the everyday, and about embracing the playful, curious spirit that drives her practice. Gab Bois doesn’t just create art—she creates moments of wonder, and in doing so, she reminds us that the world is far stranger and more beautiful than we often allow ourselves to see.

(c) Gab Bois

(c) Gab Bois

In 2020, you released a book with Anteism, and you’re now preparing to launch a new project with Baron Books. Both editions embrace a sense of play, from simulated phone cameras in your first book, inviting readers to take selfies within the gaze of the book itself, to the interactive sticker cover art in your upcoming release, directed by Max Siedentopf, which encourages direct participation with the artworks. How do you approach the design of these interactive elements, and what role does the concept of play hold in shaping your broader artistic vision and practice?

Play is truly at the heart of my practice and my studio’s vision. There’s always an element of surprise, because we’re creating things that don’t yet exist, and we can never fully predict how a work will be experienced in the real world. It is so exciting to see our vision come to life, fully formed by each decision made and each source of inspiration gathered along the way.

I see our studio as a playground, where we have the freedom to experiment and explore. We are so lucky that we don’t have to get bogged down by many constraints in our personal projects. We might still get hurt on the playground by making bad decisions, but we always learn and hop back into the swing of things.

When creating, do you think more about how your work will exist in its immediate context or how it might be archived and remembered in the Future?

Again, both. I’m always aware of how my work will exist in the present moment, but I’m also curious and excited about how it might be perceived, archived, and repurposed in the future.The future informs how I capture and display my works in the present: photographing an object in its best light, preserving it as a high quality image and as a physical object when possible. A photo can withstand time, even if the physical object deteriorates.

What's next for you? What are you excited to explore in 2025?

On a personal level, I’m really excited to dive deeper into creating video works and exploring storytelling as a vehicle for my ideas. For my studio, my team and I love experimenting with different mediums and forms of work, and our goal is to keep raising the bar for what we can achieve and what terrains we can move into. This year, we aim to continue pushing towards constructing a tangible presence of our work and vision, and we have lots of exciting products and projects rolling out this year that reflect this ambition.

“We might still get hurt on the playground by making bad decisions, but we always learn and hop back into the swing of things.”

Gab Bois speaks with Tagen Donovan
for LE MILE Ephemeral Edition - SS 2025 Nr. 38

Milena Smit - Interview

MILENA SMIT
*Between Frames

written + interview Alban E. Smajli

Milena Smit moves through cinema with an intuitive force. As an actor, she absorbs characters at their core, shaping them from within. A script carries an atmosphere that guides her, each role unfolding through presence and instinct.

Her first rehearsal with Pedro Almodóvar and Penélope Cruz marked a shift. The industry took notice. Without formal training, she learned on set, refining her craft through experience and deep collaboration.

Time on set is fluid, shaped by waiting, by intensity, by the energy of those around her. Beyond acting, new ambitions form—studies, personal growth, the idea of motherhood. Every role, every decision, every moment exists fully in its own space.

dress ISABEL SANCHÍS
jewelry YVES SAINT LAURENT
heels FERRAGAMO

Alban E. Smajli
When you take on a role, do you see it as an act of becoming—or of undoing?

Milena Smit
For me, the key is learning to work with the emotions of the characters while disconnecting from those that might trigger my own personal wounds. I used to rely on my own emotions and experiences, but it took a heavy toll on my mental health.

What does “Ephemeral” mean to you in an era that’s obsessed with capturing and archiving everything?

Being present, so those small moments don’t slip by unnoticed.

Do you think cinema is closer to memory or to dreaming?


I believe it’s a perfect blend of memory and dreams, with a touch of magic added.

Is there a single moment in your career so far that you wish you could bottle up and keep forever?

The first rehearsal I had with Pedro Almodóvar and Penélope Cruz in their office, back when I still didn’t know if I was going to play Ana in Parallel Mothers.

When the script is in your hands, what pulls you in first? Is it the story, the silence between the words, or the world it creates?


The aura of the script, the energy conveyed by the story and the character.

Your work feels like you’ve found beauty in imperfection. How much of that is you, and how much comes from surrendering to the process?

I try to approach everything I do from instinct and gut feelings. I don’t have much experience with technique, since my school has been the work itself and the people I’ve had the pleasure of collaborating with on various projects.

What’s more exciting to you, playing a character who feels like home or one that feels completely foreign?

I like the duality of both. I wouldn’t know which one to choose.

If your life were a film, what genre would it be today? Would tomorrow maybe be something else?


Right now, it would be a documentary about spirituality (laughs), but there have been moments of everything—drama, horror, romantic comedy…

What’s your relationship with time when you’re on set? Does it move too fast or too slow?

It depends on the day. On set, there’s always a lot of waiting, but I try to bring a book for those moments or enjoy the time with my colleagues. However, there are also days that are tough.

What excites you most about the worlds you’re bringing to life next?

Fulfilling other dreams, like continuing my studies, growing personally, becoming a mother someday, and living precious moments with my family.

total look DSQUARED2

dress HHABEY CLUB
shoes JIMMY CHOO

“I used to rely on my own emotions and experiences, but it took a heavy toll on my mental health.”

Milena Smit speaks with Alban E. Smajli
for LE MILE Issue 38 / Ephemeral Edition SS25

full look SAINT LAURENT

full look LOEWE
jewelry BULGARI

full look ARMANI
jewelry BULGARI

talent MILENA SMIT
photographer LEIRE CAVIA
set designer JOSEFINA MAIZA
stylist MANU MENDI
make up + hair REBECA TRILLO-FIGUEROA using YSL Beauty
photo assistants ALBERTO FERNANDEZ + NICOLE WAR + ELENA DIAZ
set assistan t DELFINA AYERZA
stylist assistants RAUL GONZALEZ + MARIA GADEZ

Thanks to CRAM TALENT

Elizabeth Dulau - Interview

ELIZABETH DULAU
*Transformation Characters Across Star Wars, Netflix & Stage

written + interview Alban E. Smajli

Actor Elizabeth Dulau is entering a season shaped by roles with weight—political, historical, emotional. As Kleya Marki in Andor, she returns to the Star Wars universe for its final chapter, joining Diego Luna and Stellan Skarsgård.

Her presence remains precise and charged with a quiet urgency. In House of Guinness, created by Steven Knight for Netflix, she plays Lady Henrietta. The story follows the Guinness family across Ireland and New York in the 19th century, navigating legacy and fracture after the death of Benjamin Guinness. Dulau also voices the Piebald Deer in Wicked, a brief but memorable role.

She has appeared in Maternal, All The Light We Cannot See, The Outlaws, and Gentleman Jack, building a body of work that feels grounded and deliberate. Each performance speaks in its own register. In this interview, Elizabeth shares thoughts on transformation, emotional access, and the quieter moments that shape a role.

dress SPORTMAX
earrings BONVO

Alban E. Smajli
You’re orbiting galaxies in Andor, slipping into corsets for House of Guinness, and voicing trembling deer in Wicked—what does it feel like to be a shapeshifter in a world constantly asking for identity?

Elizabeth Dulau
Yeah, this is an important discussion. I am a firm believer that actors should be allowed to transform into people far removed from themselves but there are boundaries that shouldn’t be crossed. There are some lanes that I very clearly do not belong in and that’s ok, that’s someone else’s lane. There’s still scope for shapeshifting within the lanes available to you.

I think it’s also important to acknowledge however, that a person’s identity can in many ways change throughout their life. This pressure to clearly define oneself is something that feels counterintuitive to me. As I’ve gotten older, I’ve realised actually being more of a shapeshifter in some respects feels natural to me and maybe that is part of my identity. It allows for growth and change and playing and to be honest that is why I’m drawn to being an actor. It allows me to really explore all the different sides of myself. To be honest, none of the roles I’ve played (yes, even the deer in Wicked) feel like someone other than myself. Every character feels like a singular thread of myself I pull on and enhance in order to transform.

The industry often feels like a theatre within a theatre. Where do you find the unscripted moments that still feel real?

I think these moments are found in the people you meet. Every now and then you’ll come across a real gem of a person with whom you can drop any professional guard and just be a messy human. I’ve certainly found that with Jacob James Beswick on Andor and Jennifer Macbeth on Maternal. People like them don’t come along often and I think it’s important to sit up and take notice when they do.

House of Guinness is soaked in legacy and loss. How do you personally move through stories drenched in history without getting stuck in the past?

When playing any character that is in a situation far removed from your own it’s important to remind yourself that your shared humanity connects you. Yes, do your research on the world in which they live, the etiquette, the politics, the faith systems but they are still a flawed person just like you. They will feel love, desire, rage, jealousy, grief and you can access their inner lives through your own experience of these things.

You’ve been part of massive universes (Star Wars) and deeply intimate dramas (Maternal). Which scale do you dream in?

My god I LOVE this question! I think my dreams range throughout many different scales. I am a big daydreamer and was often made to think it was a problem. I was constantly told to stop daydreaming and concentrate! But I realised while I was at drama school that my daydreaming is what helps me connect to my characters. I can happily spend hours dreaming up backstories for my characters to enrich their presence. I like to take the same approach to my own life too, dreaming up an ideal future for myself to then take steps towards it.

Fashion—do you see it as armour, as performance, or as rebellion? Or something more private?

I see it as all of the above. Fashion is one of the most accessible forms of self-expression and we’re always expressing ourselves with it whether we realise it or not. What we choose to cover ourselves with externally reflects something that’s going on internally. Maybe it’s a front, armour, a performance or a truly authentic expression of how we’re feeling in that moment. I love using fashion as a mode of creativity and character. When filming self-tapes for an audition, a really easy way to feel like that character might be throwing on a shirt or a pair of shoes that make you walk differently. In our everyday lives we can put on a different combination of pieces that make us feel like a subtly different version of ourselves and that feels so exciting to me.

dress + shoes SPORTMAX
earrings BONVO

coat SELF-PORTRAIT
tights FALKE
shoes ROGER VIVIER
belt + earrings FASHION ARCHIVE

“None of the roles I’ve played (yes, even the deer in Wicked) feel like someone other than myself.”

Elizabeth Dulau speaks with Alban E. Smajli
for LE MILE Digital SS25

How do you prepare for a role that requires emotional submersion—but still demands you show up, camera-ready, hair lit, line perfect?

All the camera-ready elements I don’t even think about. That’s someone else’s job. I let them look after that. As for the emotional submersion, there are a combination of factors at play. Good prep is always a winner. Again, I will often use daydreaming in the run up to a shoot to flesh out their life. I also use music a lot. Music accesses a part of our brains that logic simply can’t, so I create various playlists for each character and just before we shoot I’ll listen to a song that’s helpful. But the moment the director calls action I let go of all that prep and just focus on my scene partner, trying to change them and allowing myself to be changed by them. You have to trust that all your prep is there in the background without you having to hold on to it.

There’s a certain hush in your roles—quiet strength, subversion, layered tension. Where does that stillness come from?

I think this comes from a certain amount of internal conflict. I’m often drawn to characters whose outer projection is quite different to their inner lives. Kleya for example has a very cold and controlled exterior but I played her with the conviction that deep underneath all those external layers is someone who loves very deeply and holds a lot of hurt and rage. There’s something a little wild in her. I think this sense of stillness is born from the tension between those inner and outer lives. I’m suspended between the two.

Imagine a film directed by your future self—what genre would it be, and what would the costume department look like?

I’m very intrigued by sci-fi actually. I think it’s a really useful tool with which to ask questions about our world. And I have lots of questions! The costumes would probably be pretty elaborate. I’d need to get Michael Wilkinson on the team!

You’ve been part of a galaxy far, far away and now a dynasty built on stout. What story hasn’t been told yet, that you're dying to step inside?

I’m really inspired by filmmakers like Mark Ruffalo who use film as a form of activism, shining a light on important issues. Personally, I think there are more stories that need to be told about the climate crisis because there’s still so much apathy towards this issue.

The real change would only come about when government and major corporations commit to change but I believe we could bring about that change if we collectively put enough pressure on them. There’s so much potential for film and TV to create social movements, just look at Netflix’s Adolescence or ITV’s Mr Bates vs the Post Office. Both dramas created such a huge public response that the government took action and maybe there’s scope to do the same with the climate crisis.

talent ELIZABETH DULAU
photographer ANTONIO EUGENIO
stylist PRUE FISHER
hair ERIKA NEUMANN
male up PHOEBE HEARD
photographer assistant DANIEL EYNON

Special thanks to Grace Yeoman, PR Pinnacle

blazer ARMANI EXCHANGE
trouser ARMANI EXCHANGE
bra INTIMISSIMI
shoes MANOLO BLAHNIK
earrings FASHION ARCHIVE

coat THE FRANKIE SHOP
tights FALKE
earrings MISHO

shirt + shorts THE FRANKIE SHOP
tights FALKE
shoes MANOLO BLAHNIK
earrings MISHO
belt FASHION ARCHIVE

“Fashion is one of the most accessible forms of self-expression… What we choose to cover ourselves with externally reflects something that’s going on internally.”

Elizabeth Dulau speaks with Alban E. Smajli
for LE MILE Digital SS25

Franco Masini - Interview

FRANCO MASINI
*Between Cities, Scripts, and Style

written + interview ALBAN E. SMAJLI

Franco Masini moves with intent to generate monumentum. Actor, producer, reader of places, collector of moments—he expands his practice through curiosity and risk.

His latest project, a theatre production he’s independently bringing to life, marks a shift toward authorship. Ownership of process. Control of tone. A story he performs and constructs. Fashion is part of his language. He responds to designers like Adrian Appiolazza and Jonathan Anderson for their ability to distort form with precision. He keeps a close eye on Matias Carbone, an Argentinian voice now emerging across Europe. Masini assembles identities. and his wardrobe edits itself in real time.

watch FILM

full look MOSCHINO
tie FURSAC

blazer TRANSE PARIS
vest IGOR DIERYCK
jewelry ALT PARIS

Alban E. Smajli
Your career moves like a shifting lens—what’s in focus for you right now?

Franco Masini
I love the movement of my career. I think it’s really important to stay focused on new things and to have opportunities to learn and grow as an actor. My next step is to produce a new theatre show—I’ve already acquired the rights.

Which designers are speaking your language this season, and what are they saying?

There are many new designers doing amazing work. I really like Adrián Appiolaza and Jonathan Anderson—they’re very creative and always producing unique and thoughtful pieces. I also really like Matías Carbone from Argentina, who is expanding his brand into Europe.

If your wardrobe were a film, who’s directing?

My wardrobe has many different elements. I think it would need a very unique director. I enjoy changing styles, designers, and colours, and creating my own “Franco” style. I get bored easily—haha!

Art and fashion exist in dialogue. Where do you see the conversation heading?

Art and fashion are two things I really enjoy. I love how creators express their own perspectives through clothing.

Museums capture time, fashion rewrites it—what recent art exhibition has stayed with you?

I really liked ARCO in Madrid—a week of contemporary art, with so many creatives and amazing artists.

What does personal luxury look like for you beyond the obvious?

Personal luxury, for me, is in meaningful moments with the people I love—like visiting new places, discovering new countries, or sharing great food with friends. That’s the best.

What city makes you feel most like yourself?

I think Buenos Aires is the place—full of movement, art, cinema, friends, and always something to do. Madrid feels like my second home. It’s also incredible.

Morning ritual or midnight impulse—when do you feel most alive?

I feel most alive in the morning. I love waking up, going for a run near the river, and then having breakfast with a book. I really enjoy reading in the morning.

If you could archive a single look from your life, what would it be?

That’s hard to say because my life is in constant motion—and I love that. I’m always meeting new people, living in new places, exploring new cultures. I appreciate my job because it allows me to reach so many parts of the world.

What’s the last thing that truly surprised you?

The last thing that surprised me was meeting Adrien Brody at Paris Fashion Week. I really admire his work, and it was great to talk with him. We were seated in the same row. I’ve seen all of his movies.

full look JACQUEMUS
jewelry ALT PARIS

full look MOSCHINO
jewelry ALT PARIS

He begins his days by the river, running along the water as the city slowly wakes. What follows is quiet and deliberate: coffee, a book, the kind of solitude that aligns the mind before the rest of the world demands attention. Mornings carry a clarity that sets the pace for everything that comes after—travel, conversations, creative shifts, the layering of roles and identities. Buenos Aires flows through him with instinctive rhythm, while Madrid offers a different current, equally present in his internal map. Each place contributes to the structure he’s building—fluid, expansive, unfinished by design. His idea of luxury moves away from display and towards sensation. A shared plate with friends, the atmosphere of a new neighborhood, the texture of unfamiliar languages and streets—these are the moments that stay.

The value is in gathering feeling, in building a personal archive made of people, places, and presence. At Paris Fashion Week, he found himself seated next to Adrien Brody. A quiet dialogue unfolded—film, performance, process. Nothing staged. Just two people exchanging thoughts in a shared space, surrounded by movement but anchored in something still.
Franco Masini lives in progression. Style evolves, environments shift, energy recalibrates. What stays is the drive to create—not as an end point but as a state of being, a continuous act that shapes and reshapes itself in response to what enters, what unfolds, and what he chooses to carry forward.

full look ARTURO OBEGERO
shoes CAMPER
jewelry ALT PARIS
watch CARTIER

full look EVAN BENJAMIN
socks + shoes MOSCHINO

credits
photographer LOUIS TERAN
stylist SIMON NNDJOCK
talent FRANCO MASINI
set designer CLARA DE GOBERT via APICORP AGENCY
movement director ROBIN LABARRERE
hair PAUL GOMEZ
make up MANON CANA via BUREAU ALAGNA
nails MAHARA DIARTE-ZEROUALI
casting director MARVIN LATOURNALD with MODELS LANE
production TABATHA RUSSO at BUREAU ALAGNA
photographer assistant STEVEN BAILLIN

special thanks to Tatiana Dumabin